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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 23, 2009 13:11:08 GMT -5
Well the planning is complete. I am fabricating two brackets and making a axle bridge/truss for the 30. I will post a link to the calculator that was used (with measurements). And like Ben said there a much fewer hours in the day when being both parents.
And I just found an inexpensive powder coater, horray for me!
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 8, 2010 16:39:14 GMT -5
Well, after three bolts in my back and Keith completing 3 cheap builds, I am back to the project. The Gen-right kit I purchased is very nice, but not for a CJ with a matkins frame. I have had to come up with some different brackets and had to do a LOT of reading to figure out what I was going. Many thanks to Eddie and Paul tolerating my stupid questions as I get my small brain wrapped around this project. Again pictures of things I build and the project as it slowly moves forward can be seen here. sheppardfamily4.smugmug.com/Other/What-was-I-thinking/7643156_U9LVS#493916094_jpY9j All comments are welcome, especially if you know what you're talking about.! Enjoy!!
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Post by toynrnd on Jun 8, 2010 20:50:47 GMT -5
I have no idea what I am talking about, but I will comment anyways. You have 2 months to get that installed and dialed in so we can see it at the United Wheel-in August 12-14. Git-R-Done!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2010 21:31:30 GMT -5
Pat, Charles White has some of this under his belt. He was able to fit a CJ Black Diamond coil kit on a YJ frame with much fab. work. He doesn't frequent this but I can PM his number to ya if you want. I know nothing and if shows.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2010 21:41:02 GMT -5
Only thing I can comment on without seeing it in person is that it's still pretty kewl your doing this. Good call on the 3 link. You'll get differing thoughts on this, but when you go long arm you'll see that your clearance is really reduced and you get hung up on the arms easily. It works both ways, I made it through stuff with my SA that LA rigs got hung up on, and there were some things were my SA sucked. So what I'm saying is that the best way is to put the rear ends of the arms inboard as much as you can. And if you can incorporate those mounts in to a skid plate, that's even better. Not sure how far and crazy you are wanting to get with it. Or what your plans are. It's a non-issue if you won't do anything hard and just do the trails and RTI ramp. Just some food for thought. I was never willing to rework everything that intimately on a dual purpose rig, maybe one day if I build a buggy.
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Jun 9, 2010 7:47:46 GMT -5
Glad to see you back on this.
Now for me i dont like the single sheer on the control arm mounts. I agree with Keith and think you should keep the arms up as high as possible. Good Luck
Oh and you will need that at the wheel in.
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Post by 87B2XLT on Jun 9, 2010 7:57:15 GMT -5
Glad to see you're back in the ring, Pat. I wasn't aware you were down for back surgery... hope the recovery has gone and continues to go well with that and that this project goes well. I was going to consider a link suspension on a possible project that got nixed by the economy (owner had to scrap the vehicle for $$$)... so, now I casually look for another '84-'85 BII while I decide if I'm going to re-think things on the '87 or not.... Sorry for the tangent.... looks like it's coming along.... can't wait to see the finished project! Dave G
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 9, 2010 9:12:39 GMT -5
Glad to see you back on this. Now for me i dont like the [glow=red,2,300]single sheer [/glow]on the control arm mounts. I agree with Keith and think you should keep the arms up as high as possible. Good Luck Oh and you will need that at the wheel in. Single Shear???....... Mock UP......! This is all abstract and I needed to put it visual, half of the pre-welded bracket is bolted into the skid plate bolt hole so I can SEE what I am thinking. That means the 34" control arm is 39" in the picture. Now Keith correct me, but I thought you were talking about keeping the departure angle of the front tire in mind and making the frame mount separation as small as possible..??
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Post by newt on Jun 9, 2010 11:20:48 GMT -5
I assume a track bar will be used for side to side location?
What I've learned from reading, but I've never done myself:
* Build it at full compression and leave yourself at least an inch of clearance. * If you can raise the lower arm frame mounts without causing interference and killing your numbers, do it (reduce hang ups). * If you can keep the lowest part of your lower arm axle mounts no lower than the axle tube and well protected, do it (reduce hangups and damage). * Make sure the upper arm mounts are VERY sturdy - they will receive a ton of force concentrated on only one mount. The upper arm axle mount is where many of the home fabbed system failures that I've seen started. * The in thing right now is a little up travel for low center of gravity and good angles.
In my opinion good angles for good characteristics, strength, and reduced hang up points are more important than overly long arms and huge articulation. I'd rather have a suspension that I can count on (handling and reliability) and lift tires sometimes than one that flexes a ton but handles weird, unloads, or is fragile.
Adam
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 9, 2010 13:12:48 GMT -5
Yes the scary trackbar is going up front!!! I think Keith said it best, putting somthing like this on a dual purpose vehicle presents several problems.. getting everything stuffed up under the vehicle without TOTALLY rebuilding the upper area is tough! I took a step back and took photos of some of the bracket I had to come up with. sheppardfamily4.smugmug.com/gallery/7643156_U9LVS#895501475_HdkJ6
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2010 13:15:49 GMT -5
Now Keith correct me, but I thought you were talking about keeping the departure angle of the front tire in mind and making the frame mount separation as small as possible..?? Yes, frame mount as high and as inboard as possible; without causing a ton more work for yourself. If where it's at is as good as it gets, run it.
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 9, 2010 13:34:34 GMT -5
I assume a track bar will be used for side to side location? What I've learned from reading, but I've never done myself: 1 Build it at full compression and leave yourself at least an inch of clearance. 2 If you can raise the lower arm frame mounts without causing interference and killing your numbers, do it (reduce hang ups). 3 If you can keep the lowest part of your lower arm axle mounts no lower than the axle tube and well protected, do it (reduce hangups and damage). 4 Make sure the upper arm mounts are VERY sturdy - they will receive a ton of force concentrated on only one mount. The upper arm axle mount is where many of the home fabbed system failures that I've seen started. 5The in thing right now is a little up travel for low center of gravity and good angles. In my opinion good angles for good characteristics, strength, and reduced hang up points are more important than overly long arms and huge articulation. I'd rather have a suspension that I can count on (handling and reliability) and lift tires sometimes than one that flexes a ton but handles weird, unloads, or is fragile. Adam 1 2 3 The lower axle mount will follow the control link angle from the axle tube up. No 90degree angles to get hung up on. 4. Big beef and lots of support, gotcha... I intend not to disappoint! 5. 4 inches of up travel, the rest is potential drop controlled by straps. A coil over three link will wheel better than leaf springs by default I think, the desire is great road characteristics. I would love to run down a dirt road at 50 with great success and control/comfort.
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Post by bensredyj on Jun 10, 2010 9:19:53 GMT -5
Old Man Emu leaf springs Wheel the WILLYS !!!
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 16, 2010 11:38:22 GMT -5
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Post by ScramblerPat on Jun 24, 2010 21:14:12 GMT -5
had to try something different.... So what do ya think? Attachments:
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