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Post by thinblueline on Mar 15, 2012 16:54:04 GMT -5
nice looking work starr did, they are very detailed in what they do. ever heard a bad thing about them
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Post by Srfnfly227 on Mar 16, 2012 9:01:53 GMT -5
Looks good Keith. Wow those AntiRock links end up short. Did Starr do the sway bar link mounts also? Tie Rod flip and modified shock mounts in the rear are probably my next 2 mods. I would love to go full outboard with the shocks, but just can't swing that anytime soon so the Clayton mounts seem like a really good way to go for now. Are there any other mods required other than just moving the shock mount? I am thinking contact anywhere or even longer bumpstops? Not sure if the mount also moves the lower mount up enough to limit the uptravel at all.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2012 6:28:36 GMT -5
No other modification needed with moving the lower shock mount outboard. No need for longer bumpstops, as the point of moving the mount out is for additional clearance!
I did have Tommy weld on the link brackets. I did the rest of the TRE flip. I also found a source for the shorter end links that are threaded RH on one end and LH on the other. They are about 1/4 of the price that Currie wants for their shorter rods. They do make the links really short and that sucks because now the angle will progressively increase faster as the sway bar arm cycles down.,And that means I need to pay attention so I don't invert the arm. They send two brackets, one for each side. I asked Blaine why he sends the passenger side too, when it is not necessary modify that link bracket. He said his OCD wouldn't allow for them to not be symmetrical and I could choose to just do the driver's side. Well i did both. Since those links are short, i should have just done the driver's side. That way I'd at least have one long link on there, plus I would have only needed to buy one shorter threaded rod. Now that I see all of this, I wish I hadn't done the TRE flip on a TJ with such a small lift as mine. I would only do this on a rig with 4+" of lift.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2012 18:38:08 GMT -5
I hate throwing u-joint caps. You guys all know this happens when the cap spins and then the half cirlce clip hits the inside of the shaft yoke and flings off. Then the cap pops off and if you're lucky you catch it before it destroys your axle shaft. I modded the stockers to accept a full circle clip. Tools used: And here it is: To get these in, you must position one ring behind the cap seal. The ring on the other side can stay on top of the seal. Otherwise you won't be able to slide the main u-joint body into the yoke ears. I knocked the inner lip down a little with the grinder. You could keep cranking on it with the grinder but I feel it would just remove too much material. So then I used the air grinder with a diamond cutting bit, and then a Dremel with grinding stone to finish it off. Be careful, if you grind too far in to the ear, you might not like the results. Leave as much material as possible.
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Post by stuck tj on Apr 8, 2012 6:36:19 GMT -5
Nice work there Skip. Come to find out I had half clips in both mine for some reason (takes hole rings) The Tj has been at star for weeks now trying to get all the cob webs out. Tommy found both front ujoints with halfs one worn out the other about to be.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 7:22:15 GMT -5
I have been noticing the big TJ up there lately. Keeping an eye on it for ya. I cant believe it keeps having those clutch problems and u joint issues. Anyway, looking forward to seeing it in action again. You gonna keep it now?
Oh, and if you need any external snap rings (full circle clips), I bought 50 of them from McMaster-Carr so I can spare a few for ya. They are 1 3/16" rings. They are very slightly thinner than the half clips but are fine. The best fit are 30mm snap rings, and are .06" diameter vs .05" diameter for the 1 3/16" rings. But those 30mm ones cost more.
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Post by toynrnd on Apr 8, 2012 10:09:08 GMT -5
I would have loaned you a couple axle shafts for your writeup, that way, Mine would be done already. ;D
Nice tech arcticle, Mr. Fromme.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 10:14:30 GMT -5
Keith, would you like to do an article on troubleshooting blackout lights and adding 12 volt accessories? Maybe mounting and wiring a CB?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 11:09:44 GMT -5
I could do one on a CB. But theres so many in the web already it would be easy to cut amd paste one over here. We could do one featuring the Meatbox though. I think Mr Day should help with the lights!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 11:17:49 GMT -5
I could do one on a CB. But theres so many in the web already it would be easy to cut amd paste one over here. We could do one featuring the Meatbox though. I think Mr Day should help with the lights! Being the controls tech and all.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 11:34:16 GMT -5
I could do one on a CB. But theres so many in the web already it would be easy to cut amd paste one over here. We could do one featuring the Meatbox though. I think Mr Day should help with the lights! Being the controls tech and all. Does he even work on Jeeps anymore? What does he do with all his spare time now?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 11:54:31 GMT -5
Penny for your thoughts....
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necro
Trail Guide
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Post by necro on Apr 8, 2012 12:05:33 GMT -5
1st. What are black out lights? 2nd. If anyone needs help with 12V accessories feel free to ask, I have 10 years exp. as an automotive electrician, I worked at a car stereo shop for 7-8 years, and a CB shop for a while as well. 3rd. What are black out lights?
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Post by toynrnd on Apr 8, 2012 19:27:22 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 19:32:44 GMT -5
I sometimes use it with my wall of posters from the 80's. I am capable of doing these repairs, but I am lazy. I think it is just in the wiring from break pedal switch to lights. I has taken me a year to get it road and trail worthy......
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