I do apologize but I haven't taken any pictures of my restomod work. I got frustrated and was going to sell it, but then I decided to go ahead with it. I'm trying to keep it under $5000 total. But it's proving to be difficult because tops and doors are expensive as are rear lockers and wiring harnesses. At least I've been reclaiming parts and reusing when I can. Right now the thing is torn apart, interior and axles.
Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Jan 13, 2013 19:09:00 GMT -5
Is it shake'n bake?
The Family Waggy: '91 Grand Wagoneer-stock sans some 30" BFG A/Ts for now
Rani's '87 Wrangler, "Pixie Jeep"- 4" suspension lift, faerie green paint job
The Grocery Getter: '99 Jeep Cherokee with Rubi Rims!
How to save your axle shafts if the seal surfaces are wiped out:
I finally got around to removing the bearing, seal and retainer off the shafts and cleaned them up. I was very disappointed to find this. The seal had worn two nice deep grooves in to the shafts. Any attempt to use a new seal would have been met with more leaking.
Options at this point are to buy new shafts at $389/pr, try to sand the crap out of the shafts to the point they are smooth and the grooves are gone and hope the seal will still fit tight enough and seal, try some JB Weld or Liquid Steel to fill in the grooves, or use a Speedi-Sleeve. After a thorough search I discovered no one made an application to use a speedi-sleeve on a Ford 9" axle shaft. After downloading a spec sheet and a lot of measuring I took a chance and bought one that was of the correct dimensions. It ended up being for a Chevy timing chain cover.
The hard part was finding something the right diameter to hold the sleeve while the shaft was pressed in to it. My friends at Starr Motors, Tommy and Joe found something that worked perfectly. So a little red lock-tite under it to fill in the grooves and add extra holding power and it was pressed on.
I can go ahead and remove the lip but it doesn't appear that it will be in the way of anything so I think I'll leave it be and not do anything that has the potential to mess it up.
In trying to figure out how to solve the drag link interference issue with it hitting the right side spring I came across a knuckle bracket by JB4x4. I really wasn't up for spending the high price for the Teraflex knuckle and I also did not want the hassle of trying to make WJ knuckles and brakes work. This seems like a reasonable solution and didn't break the bank.
Took some grinding, drilling, and tapping threads but it went on nicely. Now the drag link will be closer to parallel and above the springs. It is too short so I had to source a longer drag link.