|
|
Post by Lyle on May 26, 2005 16:44:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by CORE 4WD on May 26, 2005 16:56:18 GMT -5
Hey Lyle, what was the cost for the parts?
|
|
|
|
Post by JeepinGoose on May 26, 2005 17:49:59 GMT -5
looks sweet, did you TOTALLY disengage the remote controller? or can you still use it standing outside the vehicle like moving tree limbs and such?
|
|
|
|
Post by XTrmXJ on May 26, 2005 18:03:18 GMT -5
Very nice, Thats a good idea, definatly better than the cable
|
|
|
|
Post by Lyle on May 26, 2005 19:29:33 GMT -5
Dave, the total cost was about $35... $20 for switches and about $15 for wiring and connectors. Less expensive switches could be used, but I liked these and like the fact that they are lighted when powered.
Adam, the hand held remote still works as before. All those connections were left alone.
Jon, thanks. Not my idea, just finally got around to doing it and thought I'd take pictures and share.
|
|
|
|
Post by LILREDCJ6 on May 27, 2005 3:43:27 GMT -5
Must be nice to be retired.  My switches are on the way and mine shoud be done before Paragon. Tony |
|
|
|
Post by YJ Ken on May 27, 2005 4:51:29 GMT -5
This is very cool. I may have to do it. I just don't have a place to mount anymore switches.
One thing that I did note in the drawing. The wires are labled "Black-out" and "Green-in". But, if you follow the wires to the switch, Black is cable in and green is cable out. A little confusing. If I was doing this, I would want the switch in the cab work just like the one on the remote.
|
|
|
|
Post by Lyle on May 27, 2005 6:49:29 GMT -5
If I was doing this, I would want the switch in the cab work just like the one on the remote. When I first hooked it up, pressing the top of the in cab switch was cable out. I reversed the two leads at the switch so that pressing the top of the switch would be cable in. That was just my preference. As you know, the switch panel in the TJ is low on the dash and is at the point where the dash starts to curve under. Having cable in on the bottom would have been a little awkward, but with it on top, it's easy to reach and hold. In fact, that places it close to the shifter when in 1st gear, so you can rest your hand on the shifter to steady it while pressing the button. Of course, everything is different in the YJ... surely you have room for just two more switches! ;D |
|
|
|
Post by LILREDCJ6 on May 27, 2005 6:50:28 GMT -5
Don't knock that schematic. I am not sure where i found it. It was one of those google searches and dumb luck when i found it. I figured it would work once you look at your winch.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by Lyle on May 27, 2005 6:51:58 GMT -5
Must be nice to be retired. My switches are on the way and mine shoud be done before Paragon. Tony It is! Have any luck finding wiring diagrams for the Ramsey? Thanks again for the one you found for the Warn. While it turned out to be not exact, it did get me started, and it was easy enough to deciper what was wrong. Let me know if you need a hand when you get them. Lyle |
|
|
|
Post by LILREDCJ6 on May 27, 2005 7:12:05 GMT -5
Actually on the ramsey site you can download all of there pubs off the internet. So i will keep searching them. I sure will give ya a holla since it sounds like you have a dremel laying around out there.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by JeepinGoose on May 27, 2005 7:39:52 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by PaulC on May 31, 2005 8:36:32 GMT -5
Hey Lyle,
I like the inside winch switches. What are those screw posts rated for amperage wise. I've seen several Optiums melt do to people having the winch hooked up to the side posts. You could go to marine type battery post clamps that will handle more amperage.
PaulC
|
|
|
|
Post by LILREDCJ6 on Jun 1, 2005 3:39:54 GMT -5
My switches arrived yesterday Lyle so this will be getting finished soon. Hopefully i can find a basic schematic like i found for yours.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by bensredyj on Jun 1, 2005 6:03:00 GMT -5
You still have to get out to engage and disengage the winch itself unless you can figure out a switch for that too  HAH Nice work Lyle BEN |
|
HAH Nice work Lyle