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Post by CORE 4WD on Mar 6, 2006 19:57:44 GMT -5
Here's how to fix your leaky filter housing oil ring. You may find you don't have a leaky rear main seal leak after all! The o-ring kit is about $7 from dealer, three o-rings are included. After removing oil filter you'll need a T-55 Torx bit to remove filter housing bolt. I made this tool cuz the bit wouldn't work with ratchet (too long to get by unibody)- This is the bolt you just loosened with Torx. It has two oil rings, a small and a medium. This o-ring (third large o-ring in kit) seals to block- This is where the oil filter screws on (reference pic)- Parts and tool- After pre-oiling new o-rings and installing to housing and bolt, re-install to block. Make sure to align with dowel- I relocated starter wires clamp to the unibody to gain clearance for future oil changes. there's still enough slack to move away from UCA in case it interferes during up-travel, which, of course, I'll check out on my RTI ramp cuz I can! ;D Hope this helps someone...
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Post by sinwagon on Mar 6, 2006 20:32:32 GMT -5
looks like you coud get rid of the pin get a plumbing nipple and just get rid of that 90 degree adapter and lessen the leak points
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Post by CORE 4WD on Mar 6, 2006 20:50:28 GMT -5
Once every 85k @ $7 and 1 hour isn't too bad.
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Post by toynrnd on Nov 28, 2006 21:48:02 GMT -5
Part numbers for the o-rings:
33002970 $2.20 33002971 $1.82 33002972 $2.26
Total $6.28 + $.32 tax = $6.60
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Post by 87B2XLT on Nov 29, 2006 4:45:32 GMT -5
Photochump must be having issues.... pics aren't coming up. I think I'd prefer to do a remote locate mod, if the 4.0 is anything like my Ford 2.9. I think next oil change I am going to try and take a look at the 90-degree adapter on mine to see if it's part of any leakage. I think mine is more of the front/rear main seals and the tranny / t-case than anything else. I know my valve covers don't leak anymore... and I have a LOT less leakage than I did before putting the new gaskets in!
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