Post by bensredyj on Mar 9, 2006 8:57:27 GMT -5
Blower Motor Control Switch Replacement - TJ 09-18-2004
There are two common reasons that your blower motor will not run when in fact the motor has nothing wrong with it. The blower switch and blower resistor block are frequent failures. Many forums have endless posts saying "Mine doesn't work at high speed", "Mine only works at high speed", "Mine works in low and high speed only, but...", etc.
If you look at this wiring diagram, you will see the blower motor control switch and the blower motor resistor block. Notice that high speed (labeled as switch position 7) completely bypasses the resistor block. From this you can determine that if high speed is not working, you likely have a bad switch. As the speed increases, fewer of the three series resistors are in line. One failed resistor can cause Low, M1, and M2 to stop working. If the second resistor fails, Low and M1 will not work. However, if High speed does not work, it is likely due to a short in the switch. This is what happened to me. Only M2 (position 8 on diagram, third highest speed) was working. If only Low and M1 were not working, I would guess it to be the resistor block. But if high speed is also not working, it is most likely the switch.
To rule out a faulty resistor block, you may want to test the switch before you buy the replacement. This is a quick look at continuity testing of the blower control switch.
Below is the replacement procedure for the blower motor control switch. The part number is 5011-214AA (referencing the 2000 TJ parts catalog, your model year may require a different part number).
Procedure:
Disconnect and secure the negative terminal from the battery.
Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the instrument panel top cover yp and away from the instrument panel far enough to disengage the five snap clip retainers from their receptacles in the instrument panel.
Remove the top cover from the instrument panel.
Remove the ash tray in the lower portion of the instrument panel center bezel.
Remove the screw from the back of the ash receiver housing that secures the lower portion of the center bezel to the instrument panel.
Remove the two screws that secure the top of the center bezel to the top of the instrument panel.
Using a trim stick of another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the lower edge of the center bezel away from the instrument panel.
Pull the lower edge of the center bezel away from the instrument panel far enough to disengage the four snap clip retainers that secure it from the receptacles in the instrument panel.
Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel.
Remove the four screws holding the A/C-Heater Control Unit to the instrument panel.
Remove all three control knobs from the A/C-Heater Control Unit. If you cannot get a good grip, try using rubber padded-tip pliers. Take care to avoid damage to the hollow plastic control knobs.
Pull the A/C-Heater Control Unit from the instrument panel.
Pry up the retarining clips holding the black faceplate to the A/C-Heater Control unit. With all clips moved from their retaining position, pull the faceplate off of the unit.
Remove the wire bundle from the back of the blower switch by squeezing the tabs and pulling the bundle straight off.
Remove the screw holding the blower control switch to the A/C-Heater Control Unit.
Remove the blower control switch and replace with Mopar part number is 5011-214AA (for 2000 TJs).
Install the retaining screw holding the switch to the A/C-Heater Control Unit.
Reattach the wire bundle, faceplate, and all three control knobs.
Install the A/C-Heater Control Unit in the instrument panel, and secure with four screws.
Replace the center bezel on the instrument panel, first lining up the top edge, ensuring the snap clips click into place.
Install the screw in the ash receiver housing and the two screws on the top of the center bezel. All three screws should be tightened to 2.2 N-m (20 in-lbs)
Replace the ash tray.
Replace the top cover onto the instrument panel, ensuring the snap clips click into place.
Reconnect the battery negative cable.
There are two common reasons that your blower motor will not run when in fact the motor has nothing wrong with it. The blower switch and blower resistor block are frequent failures. Many forums have endless posts saying "Mine doesn't work at high speed", "Mine only works at high speed", "Mine works in low and high speed only, but...", etc.
If you look at this wiring diagram, you will see the blower motor control switch and the blower motor resistor block. Notice that high speed (labeled as switch position 7) completely bypasses the resistor block. From this you can determine that if high speed is not working, you likely have a bad switch. As the speed increases, fewer of the three series resistors are in line. One failed resistor can cause Low, M1, and M2 to stop working. If the second resistor fails, Low and M1 will not work. However, if High speed does not work, it is likely due to a short in the switch. This is what happened to me. Only M2 (position 8 on diagram, third highest speed) was working. If only Low and M1 were not working, I would guess it to be the resistor block. But if high speed is also not working, it is most likely the switch.
To rule out a faulty resistor block, you may want to test the switch before you buy the replacement. This is a quick look at continuity testing of the blower control switch.
Below is the replacement procedure for the blower motor control switch. The part number is 5011-214AA (referencing the 2000 TJ parts catalog, your model year may require a different part number).
Procedure:
Disconnect and secure the negative terminal from the battery.
Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the instrument panel top cover yp and away from the instrument panel far enough to disengage the five snap clip retainers from their receptacles in the instrument panel.
Remove the top cover from the instrument panel.
Remove the ash tray in the lower portion of the instrument panel center bezel.
Remove the screw from the back of the ash receiver housing that secures the lower portion of the center bezel to the instrument panel.
Remove the two screws that secure the top of the center bezel to the top of the instrument panel.
Using a trim stick of another suitable wide flat-bladed tool, gently pry the lower edge of the center bezel away from the instrument panel.
Pull the lower edge of the center bezel away from the instrument panel far enough to disengage the four snap clip retainers that secure it from the receptacles in the instrument panel.
Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel.
Remove the four screws holding the A/C-Heater Control Unit to the instrument panel.
Remove all three control knobs from the A/C-Heater Control Unit. If you cannot get a good grip, try using rubber padded-tip pliers. Take care to avoid damage to the hollow plastic control knobs.
Pull the A/C-Heater Control Unit from the instrument panel.
Pry up the retarining clips holding the black faceplate to the A/C-Heater Control unit. With all clips moved from their retaining position, pull the faceplate off of the unit.
Remove the wire bundle from the back of the blower switch by squeezing the tabs and pulling the bundle straight off.
Remove the screw holding the blower control switch to the A/C-Heater Control Unit.
Remove the blower control switch and replace with Mopar part number is 5011-214AA (for 2000 TJs).
Install the retaining screw holding the switch to the A/C-Heater Control Unit.
Reattach the wire bundle, faceplate, and all three control knobs.
Install the A/C-Heater Control Unit in the instrument panel, and secure with four screws.
Replace the center bezel on the instrument panel, first lining up the top edge, ensuring the snap clips click into place.
Install the screw in the ash receiver housing and the two screws on the top of the center bezel. All three screws should be tightened to 2.2 N-m (20 in-lbs)
Replace the ash tray.
Replace the top cover onto the instrument panel, ensuring the snap clips click into place.
Reconnect the battery negative cable.