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Post by joshbaker on Feb 2, 2010 21:53:12 GMT -5
ok so enough about lifts... and i know whose blue jeep that is... i think. Any ways whats the rules about not running flares and the tires sticking out do you just have to run clearance lights?
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Post by 87B2XLT on Feb 3, 2010 4:08:41 GMT -5
Keith should be able to shed some light on this... so should Cory.....
Dave G
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Feb 3, 2010 6:44:14 GMT -5
Josh i think you get 3 inches past the edge of the flare.
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Post by Marshall on Feb 3, 2010 9:44:27 GMT -5
OK Josh...anything exceeding 4 inches beyond thefront fender extremes shall be equipped with amber lights mounted at the extreme right and left top corner...and red lights for the rear. I will tell you this,,,,unless your running something radically wide like a 15.50 you wont have any problems in VA BEACH...but, do yourself a favor....do NOT drive it at the ocean front you will be asking for a vehicle inspection. if you have any questions just give me a shout... Bryan
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Feb 3, 2010 12:25:58 GMT -5
^^ Bryan's another one who should know that stuff. And if you put that 3" body lift on that's going to further cause to look at an inspection... Shouldn't get much heartburn in NN either... but rarely do I hear of Southsiders wasting their time to go up the Peninsula.
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Post by KarlVP on Feb 3, 2010 14:29:04 GMT -5
Aint nothing wrong with a 3 inch body lift. I've been running one on my TJ for about 8 years now. Yes, it is not desireable, but it does have a few advantages.
1) it makes working on the jeep easier. you can fit wrenches and tools in places way easier. Take a look at your steering box for example.
2) It's an easy way to tuck your drivetrain into the jeep. Look at my build thread and you will see it is completely flat from framerail to framerail.
My body lift has really taken a beating. I do have a roll cage welded into the frame at 6 points, and this pretty much is the body mount now. The first two frame rail landings where the pucks sit are not holding the body on anymore. They are still there, but are just for show.
All that talk about center of gravity, sure that is a downfall, but not as bad as you think. Jeeps can REALLY lean if set up properly and not too springy with good shocks.
If you put a body lift on now, keep an eye on it over time, and if you decide to weld in a cage, or other re-inforcements it will help solidly mout the body to the frame.
Also, with a body lift, if you ever have an "ass over teakettle" rollover with the stock cage, the body is more prone to completely detaching from the vehicle = not so good.
A cage should be the first thing in everyones vehicle IMHO.
Take the pros and cons, live and learn. Biggest thing, do what you want. As I stated before, I wheel and wheel HARD, and yes my body lift is failing, but it is a moot point now.
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 4, 2010 18:47:20 GMT -5
ok got some more parts that im about to order. This time i want all opinions. Good or Bad. lol. I am getting an sye from rugged ridge and a front drive shaft from an xj. I know the shaft will have to be worked on so not too concerned about that just what yall think of rugged ridge / omix ada parts. I believe they are the same ones.
josh
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Post by jeeepxj on Feb 4, 2010 20:17:06 GMT -5
How much are you paying for that SYE? Are you interested in another t-case that already has a SYE installed? I think I might know someone that has one that'll go right behind your 4-banger AX-5.
Craig
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2010 12:53:27 GMT -5
Josh you never like the answers I give you, so whatever you are thinking is exactly the opposite of what I would suggest. Most of us use Tom Woods and he gives is a discount and it's not made in China.
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 10, 2010 17:03:40 GMT -5
ok would a tom woods driveshaft run less than $150. And sorry craig you know i love to check out your deals but i ordered my sye earlyer this morning and didnt see this post till now
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Post by A "CJ" on Feb 10, 2010 18:27:58 GMT -5
ok would a tom woods driveshaft run less than $150. Your absolutely correct there Josh,,,, Can't see buying a driveshaft for 250 or 300 when one can build a driveshaft from a good donor. You can save yourself some cash for other things on the list. tim
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 13, 2010 22:48:35 GMT -5
thank you for agreeing with me tim. I just dont see the point in wasting money on a "name" brand driveshaft. Anyways for the front i just bought a dana 30 out of a 95 yj with 4.88's in it. I am going to put ball joints and tre's on it and also put my aussie and alloy diff cover in it and swap over other stuff if need be. I also just got some weld on shock tabs for the d30 so i can move them up further on the axle housing. Wow this thing is just getting more and more complicated every time i look at it. For the time being im trying to have it done by may for the run to big dogs.
Josh
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Post by Sandy Schneirla on Feb 15, 2010 22:01:35 GMT -5
I will tell you from experience that buying a Tom Wood's driveshaft is not buying just a name brand. Not only are they built more stout than a stock rebuild, they come with a warranty. I have had several built over the past 19 years, and finally submitted to getting one built by Tom. Such a huge difference.
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 16, 2010 20:20:55 GMT -5
Ok i hate the body lift yall were rigt. Going to put the original one back on and cut the body if i need to for the 36's
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Post by toynrnd on Feb 16, 2010 21:03:07 GMT -5
If you already have it up there, just lift the motor via taller motor mounts, clock the t-case, and do a tummy tuck. Don't look back, young man! ;D They make skirts so your stuff doesn't show underneath. www.liftlips.com/
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