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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2011 18:14:37 GMT -5
Went ahead and put the front half of the t-case back together today. I started by removing the front bearing retainer. Then I replaced the bearing race. The old one was a little pitted. I replaced the input seal and the boot for the front output shift rod. At this point some are wondering why I didn't remove the front output and shift rod. Well, this is just how I am. There's nothing wrong with the seals or bearings so I decided to just leave it alone. The front only gets used at low speed and on trail rides. After cleaning the mating surfaces I placed a new gasket on the transmission and bolted the front half on, put some sealer on the bolts and torqued them to spec. Then install the idler shaft, but don't push it in to its seat. You'll want it sticking out so that after the back half of the case is on, you can put the oring on the back end; then you will drive it home with a hammer and install its retainer. Install the thrust washer. I put some grease on it to help hold it in place. Very important to note there is a tab on the thrust washer, it must fit in the recess on the case to keep it from spinning. A thrust washer will go on the back half of the case later on. Interestingly, there was not a thrush washer on the rear of my idler shaft. Not sure why, but I hope it isn't a problem later. The rebuild kit came with two. Smear some grease on the idler bearings and install them on the shaft.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2011 18:36:13 GMT -5
Replaced the race and seal on the rear output retainer. At this point I'm at a stopping point until this weekend when I can get the rear case machined for gear clearance, and I am still waiting for my "bushing" output shaft from Mark. So I cleaned the rear case and found that for some reason someone did a little clearancing on it. I cannot think of any reason for this. The AA gears haven't been around long enough and I'm under the impression the Marks gears don't need clearancing. Plus I'm certain these are factory gears.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2011 20:06:56 GMT -5
You tired of hearing about this yet? I have found that my original output shaft works fine with the gears. It's not supposed to but it does. Good news because now I can keep my parking brake. Assembled the output shaft. Did the low speed gear first, then the high speed gear. All together and everything checks out. The oil clearances are in spec everything seems to be as it should be. This might actually work out for me. I don't have a fancy Toyota SST to remove the pilot bearing, so I packed it full of grease and use a tight fitting socket and extension and gave it a few good raps with the hammer. The bearing shot out nicely. Then just tap in the new one. Don't go too far with it, just tap it until it is just below flush and even with the bevel in the shaft. I found a seal in the rebuild kit and finally figured out it was for the speedometer driven gear. This was easy, use a pick to pull the old one out, and use a socket to tap the new one in. Again, be careful not to drive it too far in.
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Post by toynrnd on Jun 23, 2011 21:47:04 GMT -5
What's your final crawl ratio going to be?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2011 11:05:54 GMT -5
What's your final crawl ratio going to be? Somewhere in the 102:1 range.
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Post by bensredyj on Jun 24, 2011 14:09:00 GMT -5
Nice work
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2011 8:16:21 GMT -5
Thanks Ben, but you spoke too soon. Bad day today. Started by setting up the Bridgeport and centering the cutting head on the output opening. Jason making adjustments and extending the flycutter blade after every pass. We had to do this manually. So then I came to realize my wondering and fears about the amount of material being left were a reality. As you can see, we didn't cut down too deep, and we cut the radius to the spec that AA stated. Another thing that AA failed on in the instructions is how deep to machine inside the case for the low speed gear. They also failed to give the diameter of the low speed gear and the required clearance for it. So when we finished the final pass for the low speed gear I wanted to see if there was any kind of strength left. I took my pick and it went right through it like paper. It's only thin in the middle and down unside the case. You can see those indentations are tapered, so the higher up the more material is left. Without rambling too much more I'll just say that it's ridiculous to have to take so much material out of such a peculiar spot. Not too crazy about this design. Even if we had left .010 more and not done that last pass it would still be too thin for my liking. What I'm saying is that in order to get these gears inside the case, you have to make some major concessions. I'm not digging it at this point. I have a friend who is a welder by trade, he's taking the case to work with him Monday and will try and build it up on the outside where it's thin. But I still am unsure if this is worth salvaging.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2011 21:23:28 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2011 21:24:22 GMT -5
Decided it was time to install the seal for the high/low speed selector. Earlier I installed the idler shaft, bearings, and thrust washer. Now slide the idler gear cluster on the idler shaft. Slide the input gear on and then the spacer. Slide the PTO gear on, taking note of its orientation. Then drive the bearing on the shaft. Again, I have no special service tools and used an appropriate sized socket. Then torque the nut to 94 ft/lbs and stake it (which I haven't done yet).
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2011 20:00:31 GMT -5
Set the output cluster with shift fork in place. I found it is easier to have the front output slide ring engaged. It keeps the ring centered and makes it easier to get the output cluster lined up. Next, slide the rear half of the case on and torque the bolts to spec. Then slide the spacer and speedometer gear on to the output shaft. It's too hard to photograph, but you will drop the ball, spring, and "hollow" retaining bolt on the top of the case. Also, don't forget to install the shift fork lever into the rear case through the seal on the top. If you are using the factory linkage, bolt the linkage clamp to it. I am using a twin stick set up for Valley Hybrids so I tied a zip tie around the top the lever to keep it from falling down. It will fall down in to the case if you let it. Put the o-ring on the idler shaft and drive it home, then install the retainer. The FSM didn't call for it, but I put a little loc-tite on the retainer bolt. Now I had enough leverage to hold things and torqued the input shaft nut to 94 ft/lbs and staked the nut.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2011 20:01:47 GMT -5
I pretty much stopped taking pictures at this point. The rest is the opposite of disassembly. You should have a FSM when doing this, and it will guide you. I checked the preload on the output bearing and it was within spec. As an FYI, the original shims is what I reused and all is good. VERY IMPORTANT!The rear output seal in the rebuild kit is not correct if you are using a t-case mounted parking brake. I found out the hard way. The one in the kit looked identical in size. I should have slid it on the drum, but I assumed it was the same. I found out after I filled the t-case and it began dripping out between the drum and backing plate. I instantly knew what it was. Finding one local was impossible. So I reused the old seal. This makes some of you gasp I'm sure. But it wasn't leaking before and I was careful when I removed it. Make sure you get the right seal before you start the job. On a side note, my parking brake works now. Some of the parts are very worn and I need a rebuild kit. No one has any in stock, they are backordered. This made my decision to reuse the old seal easy. It's not a bad job to remove that drum, so later on I'll replace that seal and rebuild the parking brake. Sorry, I still haven't driven it. Frustration set in with having to do that parking brake and rear d/s twice, and my back starting hurting. I didn't want to throw it out. So maybe tomorrow I can get the skid on and then it will be ready to drive.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2011 17:38:42 GMT -5
I tend to ramble as you can see, so I'll keep it short. Got it all buttoned up and drove it this afternoon. It works! No leaks and no strange noises. The low range is awesome, but obviously won't be appreciated until I get in in the rocks. I cannot tell if the high range is 10% underdriven as noted on AA's website. If it is, it is not noticeable to me, but keep in mind I'm running 5.29s so my speedometer is not accurate. It is has noticeably more gear noise. From what I have read, it is no where near the amount of the Marks gearset, but you can hear it. If you're a touchy person about this kind of thing you won't like it. I'm not, and I expected more noise. I don't consider it excessive or loud, just noticeable. On another good note, my parking brake now works great!
HTH if you were following. I guess the real test will be when I get it in the rocks and hammer on it.
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Post by newt on Jul 2, 2011 8:38:00 GMT -5
Sweet! So are we headed to Starr tonight to test it out on the rocks?
What fluid do you have in the transfer-case? I bet AMSOIL or some other magic in a bottle would reduce your gear noise.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2011 8:51:41 GMT -5
No way I'll use Amsoil, you know that. I'll call you about testing it out.
Someone tell me how to calculate the final gear ratio in my t-case. High speed gear - 28T Idler gear - 45 T Input gear - 26T
With an input gear of 26 teeth driving a 45 tooth idler gear, which then turns a 28 tooth gear, what would that final ouput ratio be? I get 1.11:1. Did I do that correctly? What would be the formula for this?
Never mind, it's 1.076:1, so less than 8% underdriven.
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Post by 87B2XLT on Jul 3, 2011 5:13:20 GMT -5
One thing I see that needs to happen is you need to send feedback to AA with pictures and they need to correct their instructions accordingly. Glad it worked out for you, though, Keith. Good stuff, despite the hiccup and all. No clue on how to calculate that ratio -- I take it the kit didn't give the actual specs and you can't find the ratio online? Tried searching for a calculator or formula, to no avail.
Dave G
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