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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 5, 2009 17:14:35 GMT -5
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Post by toynrnd on Apr 5, 2009 18:20:13 GMT -5
May I suggest using the "C" of the steering knuckle on the front , if your axle straps will fit through there?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 18:21:53 GMT -5
How do you have those straps hooked on the front axle? Instead of connecting them both to the center of the axle, they should be strapped farther outboard IMO. I don't cross my front straps, just the rears. You can keep them crossed if you want, but I think it would be better having them strapped more outboard.
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 5, 2009 19:04:21 GMT -5
How do you have those straps hooked on the front axle? Instead of connecting them both to the center of the axle, they should be strapped farther outboard IMO. I don't cross my front straps, just the rears. You can keep them crossed if you want, but I think it would be better having them strapped more outboard. Can you explain this recommendation?
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 5, 2009 19:05:55 GMT -5
May I suggest using the "C" of the steering knuckle on the front , if your axle straps will fit through there? They will go through the knuckle. Do you mean to criss cross the straps or to not cross them when attaching to the knuckle?
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Post by toynrnd on Apr 5, 2009 20:42:31 GMT -5
Attach through the knuckle, and criss cross.
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Post by jeeepxj on Apr 5, 2009 21:01:37 GMT -5
Sorry for all the criticism, but that's what we're here for. ;D I'd find someone to weld on some tie-downs to your trailer as well. Your attachment isn't ideal for those straps. Is the nylon rubbing on the stake pocket?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 8:08:21 GMT -5
How do you have those straps hooked on the front axle? Instead of connecting them both to the center of the axle, they should be strapped farther outboard IMO. I don't cross my front straps, just the rears. You can keep them crossed if you want, but I think it would be better having them strapped more outboard. Can you explain this recommendation? Do like toynrnd said and move the straps at the axle outboard. Having them connect to a point in the center isn't ideal. It's hard to find a good spot on a TJ front axle to strap too. You may need to find a couple of short axle straps and wrap them around the inner C knuckle. Then attach your ratchet straps the axle straps. LIke these. You can get them locally or mail order. www.amazon.com/Auto-Hauler-Downs-Axle-Straps/dp/B00196A1ZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1239023252&sr=1-1
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 6, 2009 19:17:40 GMT -5
I appreciate all the comments and don't mind the critcism.
The rear straps and axles should experience significantly more load (especially during emergency braking). As such, there are no rear knuckles, so, I am having a hard time understanding the physics and rationale behind attaching the front knuckles. The only thing that I can think of is that having the existing axle straps attached to a common location (near the middle) may not spread the collecive rearward load as much as moving them to the outside knuckles.
I will go ahead and make the change to the front but this conversation begs the question of the safety of the rear straps as there are no rear knuckles too strap to.
Any thoughts?
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 6, 2009 19:20:02 GMT -5
Sorry for all the criticism, but that's what we're here for. ;D I'd find someone to weld on some tie-downs to your trailer as well. Your attachment isn't ideal for those straps. Is the nylon rubbing on the stake pocket? It's not as bad as it looks. The nylon does not rub the actual steak pocket, rather the L-channel metal frame, which is rounded.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 19:32:40 GMT -5
Speaking for myself, then only rationale behind securing at the knuckles is because it's an easy anchor point. The front axle is very busy, not much room to wrap a strap around the axle tube like in the rear.
The reason for having four points tied down, is well 4 is stronger than 3, and having them spread outboard is going to be more stable. There is a small possibility you could have side to side movement set up like you have it in an emergency. If you cross the straps and make it 4 points it will help prevent that.
That's a nice trailer, but like Craig said, needs some D rings welded to the frame. You don't want it rubbing on anything.
I don't know where all the experts are, I'm not the trailer tie down guru.
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 14, 2009 12:29:08 GMT -5
I had a 6 hr (each way) trip this past weekend. The trailer and rig towed splendidly. I attached to the axles in the criss-cross manner shown in my pics. I researched the hell out of this question and found no compelling reason not to attached to the diffs as shown. The rig was stable and trailering on a trailer is much easier than flat towing.
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Post by dwilliamsceg on Apr 14, 2009 12:29:44 GMT -5
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Post by Chuck on Jul 4, 2009 10:10:03 GMT -5
Having done both a fair bit, I normally tie to the axle whenever I can, due to most of the reasons mentioned above regarding shock loading the straps. The only time I've willingly tied to the frame is when I've been pulling a truck with too much wheelbase on my short 16' trailer to go to the axles.
There's one other advantage to going to the axles that hasn't been mentioned above, as well. The trailer will usually ride better. When you tie to the axles and leave the towed vehicle's suspension free to move, you are introducing a shock absorber into the trailer suspension in a much more direct manner. Hits to the rear suspension will be absorbed much more quickly by the towed vehicle's four shocks, and you get less bounce. When you have the towed vehicle's suspension immobilized by strapping to the frame, you have no shocks on the trailer, and all of that energy is instead absorbed by the tow vehicle's shocks, which aren't in nearly as good a position to do the job of damping trailer movement.
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