Towing an XJ with a Ram 1500

[mudstuck]

This past thanksgiving break I bought a 2000 Ram Sport (club cab, 5.2, 4x4). So far its been a great truck, the 5.2 could use a little more power, but it was a deal I couldn't pass up. I know a 1500 truck isn't the best choice to do any towing, but its what I have to work with at the moment. I won't be doing any towing for a while, since the XJ is still undergoing some major overhauling. I have several questions about towing my XJ with my Ram.

1) Whats the best kind of trailer to use (dimensions, kind of trailer brakes, etc)?

2) When I do load the XJ onto the the trailer, whats the rule of thumb for weight distribution?

3) As long as I drive smart and stay in the slow lane, will the Ram be able to haul the XJ down the highway for extended periods of time?

Thanks.

-Will

[What It Was]

In my opinion use a dolly... keep it safe & slow.. check your owners manual for recommended towing capacity if it falls with-in then your current brakes 9as long as they are good) should handle it... I have an excuresion that I tow my toys with... (Getting rid of my Excursion soon, unless I can find a good gas efficient vehicle).

[FJ40Fran]

IMO, all half ton pickups will handle the weight of any Jeep on your typical dual axle trailer. Most common car trailers are rated at 7000lbs, under your GCVW. Although you can buy them with brakes on one axle, spend the extra and have brakes on both trailer axles. Get a good brake controller in your truck and you'll do fine with control. Some folks spend the extra to get a weight distribution hitch and anti-sway bar. I'd say you'll get 50/50 agreement on that, your pocket book choice. Bottom line both add stability when towing.

Now, engine power is another dicussion are with lots of opinions. My 2 cents is that as long you're engine is running near OEM specs, you'll do just fine on 98% of what you drive on around here. So, when you hit a long upgrade, just be happy you have a tow rig, downshift a gear, and allow yourself some extra time to arrive. Let the chipped diesels go screaming by at 70+ towing no more than you are. You still arrive and still get to wheel!!

Go with a full trailer. If you break an axle, you're still hauling it home, maybe not so with a dolly.

Good luck deciding, Fran B.

[Chuck]

I wouldn't expect it to have any trouble. I'd go full trailer rather than dolly if I had any choice on the matter, and I'd stay away from surge brakes -- go electric on both axles as was mentioned, you'll be glad of the difference.

As for weight distribution, you typically want about 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue.

Your main concern with durability doing long hauls should be transmission temperature. Take it from me, there's nothing like looking at the 400' cloud behind you because you just overheated your automatic on a long uphill grade. You should certainly invest in an additional transmission cooler (not optional), and unless you're really scraping for cash, a temp gauge (mounted either in the pan or in the line from the transmission out to the cooler). Other than that, you should be good to go assuming the rest of the vehicle is well maintained.

[sinwagon]

i tow my full size on my extremely heavy trailer with basicly the same drive train that you have (i have 3/4 springs in the rear) and i cruise at 65 mph all day long with no problems. i do recomend a trailer with brakes, it stops so much better that way.

[mudstuck]

thanks for the info guys! Now I need to start looking for a dual axle trailer at a decent price. Would I be able to rent one for a weekend trip?

[blueTJ]

mudstuck I have a 03 dodge 1500 4.7....and I tow my rubicon on a 16foot wood deck trailer every where I go wheelin...I cruise @ 65-70mph with no trouble...as for the hitch just make sure that the tongue weight is correct...

you should have a good ride to the trails

good luck
eric

[Deleted]

You should be fine with a half ton and a trailer. I tow mine with an Exploder and it does really well actually. I would recommend you go ahead and get a weight distribution hitch though, it makes a rather significant difference. Both in having the truck and trailer level, and it just feels more stable. With all the caming gear, cooler, tools, etc it is quite a load though.
I'm sure you could rent a u-haul trailer with axle brakes. For a good deal on a trailer, I'd go to Bage Industries, 4653 S Battlefield Blvd. It is at the end of battlefield, right at the state line. He has several different brands and styles. Bring cash, he'll knock $200 or more off the price. I looked for months, he's by far the cheapest. Seriously, bring cash, because if you find one you like, get it. It won't be there the next day.

[CORE 4WD]

How much Keith?

[Deleted]

Somewhere around $1600. Or more if you want one with a full diamond plate floor. Mine is the 2x4 floor. That was for a 16ft with all the fixins (spare, break away battery, led lights all around, brakes).

[ex-tbd85hilux]

How much do trailer brakes run? I should have my Jimmy up and running in 2 weeks and I have a buddy that might be selling his dual axle trailer to me for cheap... Needs a new deck and some restructuring of the frame but the axles are in good condition and it has no brakes.

Paul G.

[Deleted]

I'm not sure about the brakes, but I think about $350 for the electric ones?. Just a thought, I looked at some used trailers, more specificly 2 slightly wrecked ones. By the time I added up the price of the trailer, bearings, new brakes, new deck, and some welding work (my time), it wasn't worth it to me. After all that work you'll save maybe $400 and still have a used trailer. But if you can get it real cheap and it doesn't need too much work, it could be worth it.

[jeeepxj]

Check Northern (552-0726) and Portsmouth Trailer (487-2934) for the brakes you would need. The axles are only worth putting brakes on, if it has the backing plate mounts already welded to the axle. If it's a cheaper 3500lb axle or so, you could easily replace the whole axle for less than $300. That's new bearings, brakes, etc.

Craig