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Post by jpnut on Jan 29, 2003 20:07:27 GMT -5
Any one know whether you can drive a TJ with a NP231 t-case with out the front shaft without causing any problems. Need to rebuild the front shaft as it has almost 100k on it, but may need to still drive it while it is out.
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Post by A "CJ" on Jan 29, 2003 20:28:15 GMT -5
I don't see any reason why you couldn't do it. It will either move or it wont. What are you rebuilding, changing U joints?
tim
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Post by bensredyj on Jan 30, 2003 9:16:44 GMT -5
hahahah a @wd jeep, I think those front shafts have a CV joint at the TCase end for that constantdrive, no disconnect front axle. Were are you taking that to be worked on? ANyone know if they can replace the nin greasable ujoints in the CV with greasable?
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Post by jpnut on Jan 30, 2003 9:20:13 GMT -5
Well it shouldn't be a problem with moving. In 2wd, the tcase doesn't spin the front ds but the front axle does. I have heard that depending on what year of 231 you can remove the rear without the fluid leaking. In the TJ that is not the case.
Oh and I am replacing the u-joints and rebuilding the cv joint. I read a write up on it and it seems that it is a little involved with the center section with the little ball in it. I had the rear ds done and figured with the mileage on the TJ, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the front as well since they appear to be original. But it seems that when I am working on my own Jeep it takes several days longer than if I'm working on something like Ben's Kilby skid. I'm really trying to track down a clunk with I think could be a control arm bushing.
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Post by bensredyj on Jan 30, 2003 11:19:55 GMT -5
are the control arm bushings wearing and cracking? might check the bolts too, the last time someone said they heard a clucnking sound their adjustable control arms, their bolts were finger tight  could be just a jeep clunk, how about swap bar, heard that makes a clunk too. think I have a clunk but its the tail gate trying to fall off BEN |
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Post by jpnut on Jan 30, 2003 11:43:37 GMT -5
I'll probably take it to Fisher over on High Street. The guy they have in the shop there does a good job and I can usually have it back in a day unless they are swamped. I figure if they are stuck like the rear ds was, it really isn't worth my time to fight with it. I've had other ds work by the guy at Fisher and he does a good job. I don't think that there is enough room in the cv to have greasable joints but then again I haven't looked closely at it. The center ball is where you usually have a problem which isn't greasable on the Wranglers. The Wagoneer had a greasable center and used an adapter that looked like a needle.
In 2wd, the tcase doesn't drive the front ds, it is actually the front axle that does so even in 2wd, the front ds is spinning and wearing. Just looking to do some PM.
I haven't looked at the control arms yet. I have heard of the bolts getting loose and did try by hand to see it they were and I couldn't turn them.
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Post by bensredyj on Jan 30, 2003 13:57:07 GMT -5
Hmm interesting that the wagoneer had a greasable CV, I wonder if you can buy those aftermarket and cut to lenght for a TJ, YJ,CJ the pros and cons of a CV |
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Post by jpnut on Jan 30, 2003 14:13:31 GMT -5
You could probably pick up a Wagoneer front driveshaft from a Junk Yard. At one point I had an extra one that I got at Wrights. I sold that one to a guy in MAJ and the other driveshafts were sold to a guy in NC. I know he had a YJ but not sure what he was using them in.
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EricT
Trail Guide
Short Timer!
Posts: 194
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Post by EricT on Jan 30, 2003 15:10:22 GMT -5
you can buy all the parts you need. The part is the ball is called a centering yoke. I have the part number at home (404a comes to mine). It is easy to rebuild, you start at the out side and work in, install is the reverse.
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EricT
Trail Guide
Short Timer!
Posts: 194
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Post by EricT on Jan 30, 2003 15:14:39 GMT -5
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Post by jpnut on Jan 30, 2003 15:22:50 GMT -5
you can buy all the parts you need. The part is the ball is called a centering yoke. I have the part number at home (404a comes to mine). It is easy to rebuild, you start at the out side and work in, install is the reverse. If you keep it up with all the good information, we're not going to let you go to Idaho. Thanks for the info Eric. My reason for hesitation on doing it myself is the u-joints in the rear ds were frozen in there. |
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EricT
Trail Guide
Short Timer!
Posts: 194
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Post by EricT on Jan 30, 2003 15:26:36 GMT -5
;D
spicer# 211355X
Rockford# 404
Neapco# 7-0081 or 7-0082
Precision# 607
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EricT
Trail Guide
Short Timer!
Posts: 194
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Post by EricT on Jan 30, 2003 15:27:35 GMT -5
If you keep it up with all the good information, we're not going to let you go to Idaho. Thanks for the info Eric. My reason for hesitation on doing it myself is the u-joints in the rear ds were frozen in there. That is what PB Blaster and a BFH are for. |
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Post by jpnut on Jan 30, 2003 16:09:43 GMT -5
That is what PB Blaster and a BFH are for. Tried that. Soaked it for several days and still didn't help. The shop took a torch and x'ed the centers and beat the rest out. They really frown on using open flames here in the office but they never said anything when I rebuilt a t-case at my desk. |
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could be just a jeep clunk, how about swap bar, heard that makes a clunk too. think I have a clunk but its the tail gate trying to fall off