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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 16, 2003 18:30:02 GMT -5
Hey guys,
as I am building up these axles for the XJ, I am thinking about the steering as well. I want to run a hi-steer setup from Shaker and was wondering how hard it is to swap the flat topped knuckles over to the Waggy axle I have? I noticed that on the spare axle I picked up that the ball joints mount with the stud facing down, whereas on all the flat topped D44s I have always seen the stud facing up with the nut on top. This means that the steering knuckle mounts differently onto the inner "C" knuckle. Will this be something hard to modify? Jason. don't you have flat topped knuckles?
Also, I am trying to take apart these D44s and I realize I need a hub socket. Are all D44 hub sockets the same? Will a D44 socket work on the Waggy D44s as well as a Chevy or old Dodge as well? I have two others for the 14 bolt and the D60, but I don't know if there are a lot of differences between the various D44s or not....
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Post by BIG J on Jan 17, 2003 12:46:16 GMT -5
all of the old 44 have the same knuckle style and are interchangeable, if you have one where the ball joint studs face down it sounds like a newer model or you have the axle upside down. the hub socket is standard, the one i have fits ford and jeep and should fit chevy too. the best flat tops are the jeep ones. you will find them on pre 76 waggys. there are two different spindles as well the older which is found with the flat top knuckles uses a smaller inner bearing common to early jeep and ford, the newer uses a larger inner bearing common to both jeep and chevy which is what you already have. if you find a set of the flat tops, let me know because i need a set of those spindles with the smaller inner bearing, i have a set of the ones that you need that i will trade you. my axle is finished now if you would like to take a look; you have to be careful with the high-steer to make sure that it does not hit the trac bar or coil springs. basically you will be doing a custom trac bar and the steering will have to be inverted y style. there is not enough room for seperate tie rod and drag links. i'm tired of typing, if you have any other questions let me know
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 18, 2003 14:49:58 GMT -5
Hey Jason, when can I come over and look? Also, I need your help taking the flat tops off. I can't figure it out. I cannot get the lower ball joint to let go of these knuckles here. Also, the top ones have this huge screw thing that goes down over the upper ball joint's stud part and screws down into the inner knuckle. Never seen anything like it. I was able to get one out, but the other is seized up in there. Is there any special tool for this doohicky? Also, the flat tops I have I believe are the large ones though. Not sure, but the hub is a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and uses 6 studs to mount the spindle to the outer steering knuckle. I have everything totally off but can't get the lower ball joints to let go. I can't even get a ball joint "popper" in there cuz the upper one is still in the way. Not even a tiny 2 jaw-puller can fit. I have tried pickle forks and I have no idea what to do next....any suggestions so I can get these off and dump the housing? The parents don't like all these axles in the driveway....  |
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Post by Lyle on Jan 18, 2003 15:29:11 GMT -5
Chris... I think you have some local competition...
hmmmm... "The Pennisula Axle Museum"?
;D
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Post by A "CJ" on Jan 18, 2003 16:10:58 GMT -5
yes there is a special tool it is called a socket spanner wrench or something like that. It is very hard to remove them if the upper ball joint is still in place. NAPA sells them as well or at least the had them in the past. I have one if you can't find one.
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 19, 2003 0:27:49 GMT -5
Thanks Tim and Karen! I will pick one up tomorrow. I got the first one off by tapping the slats with a screwdriver ans sorta spinning it around. The other screw/nut thingy told me to go play with myself when I attempted the same thing.... Any idea on the lower ball joints??? Usually the steering knuckle is mounted on the top part of the inner knuckle, so you can usually use a pry bar or something to lift whevehicle with the steering knuckle supporting the weight. Since it can't do this, it just slides the ball joints right out. This one won't budge its lowers....and there is no way to get a compression device in there to pop the little monsters out...I need advice.....Maybe i jut need to go buy a Haynes manual and see if there is some sorta tool or info on them !#$!#$!#$!#$ |
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Post by A "CJ" on Jan 19, 2003 9:51:04 GMT -5
a manual is a good start, the ball joints I have removed only used a pickle fork to get it out with a bfh . |
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 19, 2003 10:29:55 GMT -5
A Big Freaking Hammer...gotta remember that one!  I was using a pickle fork and a BFH, but to no avail....maybe I just need to get a sawzall and chop the dang inner knuckles off...  |
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Post by Lyle on Jan 19, 2003 11:34:21 GMT -5
Maybe use the firewrench to heat things up a bit, then use the bfh and pickle fork?
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 19, 2003 15:42:10 GMT -5
Tim,
I would really like to borrow that tool. NAPA said they never heard of it, Pepe Boys and Autozone don't and neither does Sears. Don't you live on the Peninsula side of the water? Would I be able to pick it up this evening? I am going to a movie with my parents around 5pm. So if I could come by after dinner? My phone is 825-4947, you can leave a message and I will give you a holler.
Thanks for the offer!
Joshua
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Post by BIG J on Jan 21, 2003 13:25:52 GMT -5
ok, after you take the nuts off both joints take the bfh and start smackin the inner ear around where it goes around the joints, this will help releive some of the tension. then alternate between hitting the inner ear the knuckle itself and the upper ball joint, this has always worked for me even though it takes a few minutes sometimes. every little hit is releiving some tension also even if you have the spanner tool (you can get it from NAPA if you find the part #) the spanner is usually so tight that you can not turn it. i cracked spanner socket trying to do this. if the hammer still doesnt work then heat the inner knuckle with a torch even if all you have is a little LP torch it will work. now stop playing around and put some stank on it.
it sounds like it is an old one if it is 5x5 1/2 bring em to the next meeting and i'll bring the ones i have, also was this a drum or disk front end?
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 21, 2003 18:03:37 GMT -5
Its a disc front end...it came off of an 82 Dodge Power Ram, not a Ford. I don't know without comparing, but it looks like it has the big or at least wider spindle....but not sure.
Also, my D44 uses the knuckle on top with the ball joint facing down. This Dodge axle uses them the other way. Will I be able to fit them?
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Post by BIG J on Jan 23, 2003 15:37:58 GMT -5
the knuckles are not interchangeable, but all the older 44 knuckles are the same, what 44 do you have that uses the ball joints facing down?
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Post by MaddRamm on Jan 25, 2003 12:01:06 GMT -5
Well, it is off of one of those waggys at u-wrench-it.  The Dodge ball joints have the stud part facing up. The waggy axle has the ball joint stud down on the inside where the axle shaft is. It was the same way on my Dana 44 from the '97 Ram. So I can't use these...silly.  |
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Post by BIG J on Jan 28, 2003 12:26:27 GMT -5
wow, i have never seen a waggy 44 that was set up like; that got a picture of it?
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