|
|
Post by CORE 4WD on Jan 8, 2006 19:46:47 GMT -5
You're having waaaay too much fun! I dig the rear frame/recovery point boxing. Good stuff. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Jan 8, 2006 20:45:59 GMT -5
hey chuck, just give me a week's headsup as to when you want to pull the windshield. I have to pool a few resources to get the glue for it, and order the knives.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Jan 9, 2006 10:21:52 GMT -5
No problem, it'll probably be at least a couple of weeks before I can get the cab painted at this rate, and no point trying to swap 'em before then. Right now I probably won't have the rear crossmember done until at least next weekend (have to work all week this week), and then figure at least a week after that to have everything painted up ...
Would it be easier to swap while I have the cab sitting low to the ground before I put it on the frame the final time? If so, we can figure on swapping it a couple of days after the last paint, which should still be at least a couple of weeks ...
|
|
|
|
Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Jan 9, 2006 11:18:40 GMT -5
it doesn't matter when we install it. I've worked on trucks way taller than your tronco, so I'm used to it. I'll just need you on the opposite side, seating your side of the glass onto the pinchweld. so whatever is convenient for you.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Jan 9, 2006 11:22:23 GMT -5
No problemo! I'll give you plenty of warning when the time comes, then. ;D Thanks, bud!
|
|
|
|
Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Jan 9, 2006 11:33:47 GMT -5
No problemo! I'll give you plenty of warning when the time comes, then. ;D Thanks, bud! I'm just glad I can be of use to somebody. |
|
|
|
Post by PaulC on Jan 9, 2006 12:51:03 GMT -5
Hey Cory,
Can you cut wildshields? I need a flat one cut for the front of the M725 and two rear door pieces of glass cut, they are flat too?
PaulC
|
|
|
|
Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Jan 9, 2006 13:41:58 GMT -5
I wish I did, but if you need me to get the glass, and have it cut, I know a guy that should cut me a break on price if you want.
I can cut OUT windshields, and install them. never did any glass working unfortunately. didn't get that far in learning before I had to be let go.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Jan 9, 2006 16:06:22 GMT -5
That sucks. You could probably make a pretty good side business out of doing glass for trail rigs, if you could get the glass itself cheap enough ...
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Jan 29, 2006 21:10:14 GMT -5
A little preview -- this is the way the body is supposed to sit. Fender alignment controls the cab angle, so we had to put the fenders and core support on temporarily. All of this comes back off once the crossmember is done and the seats are adapted in so we can paint it and get rid of the nasty red-grey-green christmas paint scheme.   |
|
|
|
Post by CORE 4WD on Jan 29, 2006 21:58:18 GMT -5
Hey at least it's rolling around now. Keep the pics coming!
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Jan 30, 2006 16:49:02 GMT -5
I was just delighted to see the fenders on it, and the cab set right -- gives me a better idea what this little booger is actually going to look like on those 33's. Works for me.
Going to be fun adapting the Bronco buckets and console to the truck cab -- the mount points are completely different. The Bronc has four bolts per seat (plus four for the console) like any normal vehicles, but the trucks, even with split bench and other seating arrangements, all used four mounting bolts total with the individual seats mounted on a pair of common rails across the cab. I'm looking forward to it, though ... getting tired of welding on big (3/16" to 1/4") stuff for a bit. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Feb 28, 2006 0:36:13 GMT -5
Overdue for an update, I think ... this was as of the end of the holiday weekend, a week ago. New crossmember is L6x4x5/16, cut at about 38" (half an inch beyond the outside of the frame on either side). Endplates are cut to fit around the front spring bracket. Getting that endplate shaped so that it would both clear the spring bracket and come out (rotate up and back) without lifting the cab more than 1/2" or so was a real bear, ate wayy too much time.  In place on the vehicle, hardware is 1/2" Gr. 8:  Driver's seat was a bolt in (well, after you drill some boltholes, at least), but the passenger seat required some ... er, persuasion. The outboard legs are fine, but the floorpan at the inboard legs is completely different.  In this case, "persuasion" means "cut 'em off and weld 'em on where they need to be."  Result is worth the work, though. Seats are mounted, console isn't (yet). silly is it nice to be able to sit in my truck again. Shame I need to pull the cab back off this weekend to prep for paint.  This past weekend I had to work Saturday, but Cory and James came over, and we did get the glass out of the cab. It should be able to come off next weekend so I can weld the real hardware for the seats to the floorpan, prep and Herculine the interior, and start prepping for paint! ;D |
|
|
|
Post by PaulC on Feb 28, 2006 10:15:07 GMT -5
Looking good. That thing is begging for a set of 36's.
PaulC
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Feb 28, 2006 10:34:36 GMT -5
I've got to wear out these good 33's I got from Matt first. ;D I wouldn't trust the 8.8 rear and the TTB44 front very well with 36's, but I've still got a solid HP D44 I can use later if I want to do a solid axle swap and go bigger, and 9" axles are a direct bolt-up with zero modification. Only catch with the front SAS is I'd either have to lift the truck 4" minimum, 6" more realistic for the diff to clear the engine crossmember, or eliminate the stock crossmember so I can keep it low (the way I'd be more likely to go). I don't know yet. But I definitely want to play with it in the current configuration for a while, so I can figure out what I really want to do next with it ... Of course, that would require getting it done and back together. Knew there was a catch.   |
|
