Dodge diesel

[Aaronon38s +1]

I'll be going to Texas to get my truck and trailer this week. BTW, where did you all get your auto tie-down straps? And i know i'll probably get mixed ideas on this, but what's better and why, tieing down the Jeep by the frame or axles? Or does it matter a whole lot?
I'll admit, I could use a lesson on strapping the Jeep to the trailer before i try to do it by myself, so advice is helpful.
Also, what about using the winch to tie the front down like the flatbed towing compainies use (i mean they use theirs, but i want to use the one mounted on the Jeep)

[jeeepxj]

www.snappinturtle.com


This is where I've bought two sets of tie downs for my Jeeps. I really like the kind with the built in axle strap. One less thing to lose, and it just makes hooking around the axle a little easier.




www.talcospecialties.com/web18.htm
This place seems to be quite a bit cheaper, but I've never delt with them.


These are only $18.99 each. Looks like they're worth checking into.

I say to strap to the axles. If you want to bind down the body as well, then do so. It doesn't seem "safe" to JUST bind to the body. Just my .02

Craig

[CORE 4WD]

Ratchet straps aren't really rated for "snatching" movements which is what happens when you hit a bump and the vehicle compresses down. When the strap slackens up, the strap or mechanism can break when it uncompresses or rebounds. Ask me how I know . Also the extra movement can lead to chafing and eventual breakage. Pretty much the same for winch, you wouldn't use it in place of a snatch strap as it's bad on the internals and on the cable. (arguably)Just strap or chain the axles and call it a day. Watch your brake lines...

[4WDnRocksNmud]

whatever you choose, the less amount of "strap" you have, the better... almost works like center of gravity.

axles are closer to trailer, hence less material needed to hold it down.

-are my presumptions right folks?

[Deleted]

Tie down by the axles. Get the straps with the built in axle straps like in the pic above. They normally cost about $20 each. But I found my set on ebay for $60 a set. Chains and a binder work ok too, but who wants to deal with heavy chain? And as Dave said, wrap the straps under the brake lines on the rear axle.
As for using the winch, I see the tow trucks do that on a daily basis, and I also see them break the cables about once a month doing it. Take a look at those tow truck winches, they aren't exactly worried about kinking, wrapping, fraying, or breaking. Either way, your winch is attached to the frame, opposite of a tow truck's winch tied to its bed, and the cable tied to the disabled vehicles axle or control arm.

[Aaronon38s +1]

It all makes perfect sense. Axle it is. Thanks all, and thanks Craig for the link info. Should have a couple straps heading my way this week.

[jeeepxj]

Hey Aaron, what's the details on the truck and trailer? Did you get a 2001 Dodge Dually Cummins with at 24' Gooseneck? ;D

[Aaronon38s +1]

jeeepxj said:

Hey Aaron, what's the details on the truck and trailer? Did you get a 2001 Dodge Dually Cummins with at 24' Gooseneck? ;D

?
No. I just got back from TX. I got a '98 Dodge Dually Cummins 4x4, 5 speed with a 20' tag along. I'll see if i can get this picture thing figured out, or i'll just e-mail to Craig so he can put em up.
BTW, Texas is LOADED with diesel trucks for good prices if you can take the time to fly out and drive it back.

[lomodyj]

Yup, I looked all over texas for trucks. Mostly on Ebay. Plenty of deals. Just got back from Okla-freekin'-homa with my new tow rig.
1996 3500 DRW CTD


That's in the WallyWorld parking lot, just off I40 in Oklahoma City...20 hours driving to get home, 3 hours of sleep, one visit with a bud, 24 hours total on the road.

Did you get the 12 valve or the 24 valve?

edit:
Forgot to mention[glow=red,2,300]21 MPG[/glow]

[Aaronon38s +1]

I got the 12 valve (pre mid-'98). No problems with the engine, however the manual tranny is giving me problems going into 3rd. I think the synchros are shot, and it'll be $1200-$1500 from what I seen to get them replaced. I swear I'll get pics up soon.
I was only getting 15 MPG (pulling an empty 2000 lb trailer), but i was doing the speed limit on my speedo, however I never got passed so I think it's off a little (probably more into the upper 70s).

[lomodyj]

We probably should move this to the tow rigs section...

Get your truck out on the hiway. look for the mile markers on the side of the road. They are reasonably accurate. Time yourself over one mile, then check yourself by checking every mile then cumulatively over 5-8 miles. If you cover the mile in 60 seconds you are doing 60MPH, 55 seconds is 70, 50 seconds is 80, 45 is 90, 65 seconds is 50 mph, 70 seconds is too d**n slow and you need to get your junk off the road. OR you can find a bud with a good GPS. The 3500's came with 215/85r16's (check your door plate) most owners moved up to 235's or larger, thereby goofing up the speedo, I have not found a way to correct this like we can with the t-case gear on our Jeeps. (I'm sure there is a fix, I just have not read about it yet). The 215/85 tires are hard to find in an E rated tire(I'm doing this now).

The NVG4500 is a very strong tranny, the weak point is the clutch. There are long arguments on the CTD boards as to what to use in it. but it comes down to, use either the Amsoil MTG, Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90, or Syntorq from the dealer. It must be GL-4 and not GL-5. If I were you, I'd do a fluid change and see if that helped some before I kicked out a couple grand to rebuild it.

You should be getting better than 15 mpg. Back to the tires, if they are not the 215/85's your Odometer is going to be off also. So, if you are doing your calcs from that they will be off.

E-mail me your picture (galen<at>mantadiver<dot>com) and I'll put it up for you.

Oh, yea, the 12v are ripe for a WVO conversion. ;D

[Aaronon38s +1]

Galen, i e-mailed a pic of the truck and trailer to ya. I would have better ones if it would stop raining for a little bit.
BTW, what is a WVO conversion. Sorry, I'm new to the diesel thing.
Also, the exhaust brake doesn't seem to do a whole lot. I hear it and can see it physically kick it, but don't feel a whole lot of slowing down motion (barely enough to feel). Am I supposed to get more braking out of it than that?
If anybody wants to take a look at it for me, let me know (within reasonable distance), since I am unemployed for 3 months now, I have plenty of time.

[lomodyj]

WVO is Waste Vegatable Oil. Using filtered cooking grease, heating it for viscosity (bio-diesel is using a chemical proccess for viscosity) and running on it most of the time...I'll shoot you some links on the conversion another day. To set your truck up it takes about $2000 worth of tanks, filters, lines, gauges and so forth. I've got buddies that are figuring their costs, minus their time harvesting grease, is costing about $.25 a gallon. You loose about 10% in HP and about 10% in MPG...

You should really feel your e-brake doing its thing. It won't be like mashing the brake pedal, but in 3rd gear from 50 mph it should feel like you put a parachute out. What brand of e-brake you got? some may work better than others...I had an Isuzu FSR years ago that the e-brake did very little on...Had a Mack that it would put you into the windshield in any gear...

[Aaronon38s +1]

The switch says "Pacebrake exhaust brake." I couldn't see any label on the valve itself, and it looks like it strokes fully. Of course, I'm kinda new on the whole Jake Brake system, so maybe it isn't working right. Will it work better at a lower gear and higher RPM. I only tried it at relatively low RPMs.

[lomodyj]

Don't know the "Pacebrake" brand...may not work as well as the Cummins brand I have...and Yes it will work better in lower gears with higher RPM,s it's all about creating back pressure in the exhaust system.

P.S. here are your pics: