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Post by CORE 4WD on Dec 21, 2005 20:38:38 GMT -5
I'm putting a True Hi-9 35 spline drop in into a Currie housing in mine, the stock 9 inch will be coming out. The 28 can easily be upgraded to 31 splines should you start breaking 28 spline shafts. You probably won't break them with open diff, just save for 31 spline axles and a locker. Your's is spring under, right? Just cut off perches and weld new ones on (underneath) while setting pinion angle at same time.
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Post by jeeepxj on Dec 21, 2005 21:53:54 GMT -5
I'm putting a True Hi-9 35 spline drop in into a Currie housing in mine, the stock 9 inch will be coming out. The 28 can easily be upgraded to 31 splines should you start breaking 28 spline shafts. You probably won't break them with open diff, just save for 31 spline axles and a locker. Your's is spring under, right? Just cut off perches and weld new ones on (underneath) while setting pinion angle at same time. Hey Dave, I'm not trying to steal the thread but... Is True Hi-9 the only company to get their stuff from? Anyone else that we can deal/steal with? |
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Post by Sticks on Dec 21, 2005 23:34:52 GMT -5
You might want to hold onto those track bars for inspection purpose. tim Uh...my inspector seemed to be pretty forgiving on some things..unplugged off-road lights, missing front trac bar, e-brake not too tight...uhhh..yeah. I have a spare set if I really need them. Just looking to get rid of the ones with the relocation brakets. Andy |
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Dec 22, 2005 16:44:07 GMT -5
You might want to hold onto those track bars for inspection purpose. tim Uh...my inspector seemed to be pretty forgiving on some things..unplugged off-road lights, missing front trac bar, e-brake not too tight...uhhh..yeah. I have a spare set if I really need them. Just looking to get rid of the ones with the relocation brakets. Andy if the lights are above the headlights, and you have more than two, they have to be disconnected anyway. ebrake not too tight?? if it holds the jeep....... eh. not on topic, i know. back to the cave I go. |
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Post by Sticks on Dec 22, 2005 23:19:26 GMT -5
The lights are on the front rail of the bumper.
E-brake can't hold back the 350...yet.
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Post by CORE 4WD on Dec 23, 2005 7:27:54 GMT -5
I'm putting a True Hi-9 35 spline drop in into a Currie housing in mine, the stock 9 inch will be coming out. The 28 can easily be upgraded to 31 splines should you start breaking 28 spline shafts. You probably won't break them with open diff, just save for 31 spline axles and a locker. Your's is spring under, right? Just cut off perches and weld new ones on (underneath) while setting pinion angle at same time. Hey Dave, I'm not trying to steal the thread but... Is True Hi-9 the only company to get their stuff from? Anyone else that we can deal/steal with? Hi Craig! As far as I know, yes. They are still relatively new so I don't think anyone else is selling their product yet. It's expensive but it's the strongest out there (IMO)and it's got lots of clearance! |
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Post by Sticks on Dec 26, 2005 15:23:34 GMT -5
Today I learned that I only have a 15 gallon tank. What years did that inner plastic tube exist? Pulled the plastic inner-rear fender wells in preppping to cut the extra fender that I'm gonna chop off soon. Anybody want em'? Mounted a 60" hi-lift to the swing away tire carrier.   Had to put it upside down cause the base would hit the body when closed no matter what height I put it at.  It works out as I managed to use the old spare tire bumpers as bumpers for the hi-lift...not to mention its its own security device. Still have to pull the T/C drop. Maybe tomorrow.  And "no"...that is not a 35" tire as a spare. Not yet, that is... |
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Post by Sticks on Jan 20, 2006 23:59:35 GMT -5
Finally got around to pulling the transfer case drop. Before  After  Replaced the extended bolts with new. I notice a very subtle vibe in the seats under acceleration...nothing to panic over though. So...I'll let these go to whoever wants them for $25.  I did happen to notice though that the motor did shift a tiny bit of a tilt towards the radiator. No problems though. Finally got the motor timed right at 8 degrees and the starter replaced. Did some re-wiring and now it has a push button start. Not sure what is next...Makes some money I guess? I'd like to do the same things that Jay did with the 8.8, lockers and a Super 30 kit...that plus cutting down the 3" body lift to 1" and up'ing the springs to 4.5-5.5"... We'll see what happens come tax season. Andy |
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Post by CORE 4WD on Feb 15, 2006 19:08:43 GMT -5
Any more progress Andy?
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Post by Sticks on Feb 17, 2006 21:06:12 GMT -5
Actually...no. Re-work more like it.
I just got back yesterday from an 18-day out on the Atlantic with our mighty George Washington...night before I left, the 94 YJ decided to go kaput about a half-mile from the house. Me-n-Karla pushed it back. Had an ACC fuse blown...replaced that...still no start. With no time left, I left it sitting till I come back. I was planning on replacing all the ignition electrical (cap, rotor, plugs, wires). Well, in working on that today...turns out the coil on top of the distro (remember it's a 350) had a completely fried wire. Dunno if it was the cause, I was really low on gas too...so I canned it with about a gallon just for GP and cranked. Started up fine. Drove it around tonight and didn't seem to have any issues.
I'm leaving again in about 10 days for two more weeks, and two weeks after that we'll be leaving for two months...so it might be more like this summer before I even get to shim the rear axle. Plans still remain the same for taking the EB's 9", finding a 44 for the front, dual ARB's front and rear, lopping the 3" body lift to 1", and getting 4.5-5.5 inch leaves under there. I would like to do most, if not all of it in one fell swoop. So, I'm mainly in collection mode right now. I have to shim the rear though...the vibe is just something I wont live with.
Andy
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Post by Sticks on Jun 26, 2006 13:33:05 GMT -5
Allrighty...
Been a while. Just got back from a week down in Florida. Before that, I was out for two months doing a SouthCom deployment on the GW. Between here and October, I have a couple more underways that are just killing me, but I guess I can't really say I can afford anything substantial except shims for the rear. Till later when I get reday for a swap, I put the transfer case drop beck in to quell the vibes. The DS angle is just enough that it vibes too much to leave it.
Good to be home...
Andy
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Post by 87B2XLT on Jun 26, 2006 17:15:09 GMT -5
Looking good, I guess, but here's my $0.02: SOA, SOA, SOA. It's only a matter of getting two pairs of spring perches, welding them on, cutting / grinding the old ones off, and bolt on the leafs. And... actually, if you pull your BL off, and do an SOA, you probably won't need to do much in the way of lifting the suspension. I'm sure there are other things that will need to be done, though. Just my thoughts on the matter -- plus, everyone I've ever known that had that type of YJ did the SOA and either lifted springs or lifting shackles and liked the results *shrug*
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Post by Sticks on Jun 26, 2006 21:54:17 GMT -5
I've thought about it. Read a lot about it and threads among threads of what people have done and what to do in order to get it done. I have ideas about it...could use the springs I already have, drop the BL to 1" (or none at all) and still maintain anywhere from 5-7" lift. The things I don't know about...hi-steer setups, post-install ride, blah, blah, blah.
I'm sure when finances come more available and it becomes time to consider I'll look at it again. Right now, I'm waiting on a 9" rear from an EB via a local welder guy who drives an XJ.
Andy
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Post by newt on Jun 27, 2006 8:19:37 GMT -5
Just my 2 cents. 3" body lift is just waiting to cause issues. Ditch it for a quality 1" body lift that uses one piece mounts instead of the lift puck on top of a body mount. Before you decide on your lift, mark where the flares are, remove them and trim the body. You can create a ton of clearance that way without any of the drawbacks of a tall suspention lift (center of gravity, drive shaft angles, steering linkage issues, etc). If you plan to stick w/ 35"s, do all of the above first then figure out how muck lift to use. Your goal should be to keep the lift just high enough to clear. Also look into the wagoneer front lift springs (44044s) as an option that will also help give you a smidge more wheel base.
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Post by Sticks on Jun 27, 2006 12:42:35 GMT -5
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