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Post by Sticks on Dec 12, 2005 23:14:35 GMT -5
Well Y'all, With the new 94 YJ, I'm starting to uncover some of the "internals"...some I like, some I don't. For instance: I don't like....  The fact that there is 4" of body lift is disturbing  . I'd like the majority of the lift tobe in the suspension. So, new leafs are definitely in order. Or this...  I love the Bushwacker flares, but the fact that the panels aren't cut makes the stuff-factor worthless for the 35's. I do like... www.photodump.com/direct/the5barrons/350CHEVY2.jpgNo power issues...ever! and...  It's a custom weld-job that is very tight for both pipes all the way to the cat where they are spliced together. Being that the 350 is already in, a major step is done. The D35 rear is gonna have to go. When I get an 8.8 ready to go in, I'm thiking of re-gearing the front to something a tad bit lower. At 60-65, the engine is almost screaming. I think the original 4.11's are still in there. How low can an 8.8 and a D30 go? Adding in locker-costs, that is going to be a big part of the project. The setup now is almost a garauntee to break...especially under wheeling conditions. Between adding in the basic essentials, there are some things that can come off too.  Nice to see the relocation brackets there, but the ride is wicked-stiff. I'm thinking that the trac bars front and rear won't be missed. Subtracting the 4" of body lift leaves me with 3-3.5" of leaf lift. That's going to have to go up to at least the RE 4.5" and retain 1" pucks or see if Alcan willl make a 5.5" spring. Well, the work is cut out for the next long while. Any ideas on where to start?   Yes...it says "Cheverolet" on the front grille. 30 March 2007 Rev 111 flares, no paint.  Painted (three coats Dutch Boy, no rust something or other)   Old fenders off.   Left fender mounted  Triple horns and compressors remounted  Left fender mounted  Finished pics.     All in all, it took about 6.5 hours from opening the box to tying up the last wiring and such. Only issue I have to contend with is the marker light/turn signals. Not sure what to do about that yet. Update - June 13, 2007 Got these for FREE. Sitting in a shed for almost 2 years. Off of a 70's Vette. They're the L88 (cast# 333882) Open chamber, ported, not polished. A couple hours of work on the heads. Pulled em' apart, dunked-n-soaked, wheeled the valves, etc. New valve seals and they're ready swap in.  So, today I managed this much... Front grille and radiator out.  Accessories out, carb and intake off.   Tomorrow (hopefully) I'll get enough time to get the exhaust unbolted and the heads off. Have to take the rocker assemblies down and swap them over to the L88 heads. I'm planning on changing the cam, lifters, and going to a set of noisy timing gears too, but I have to see if there is anything special about the bore first. |
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Post by toynrnd on Dec 12, 2005 23:24:16 GMT -5
Good lookin' Jeep, but definatley get rid of that 4" body lift (illegal in VA). You're right about the D35, too. I have some 3.07 geared axles if you want to swap  , but that is probably too high for ya. |
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Post by Chuck on Dec 13, 2005 10:27:22 GMT -5
Good lookin' Jeep, but definatley get rid of that 4" body lift (illegal in VA)... Yup, that's got to go ... another excuse for a ticket if someone doesn't like you.  Have you figured out yet what transmission it has in it? I know you did say it's a non overdrive three speed. If you want a good all-around driver that'll still be fun in town without going nuts on the highway, put 3.55's in it -- with a 1:1 top gear ratio, that'll get you down around 2100rpm at 60mph on the highway. Plus, 8.8 3.55's are very easy to find in good used condition, since they were a common factory ratio in the trucks. Lets you save a few bucks for now, since the factory gears are just as strong as what you'll find aftermarket. If you've got 4.10's in it now, you're probably running right around 2500rpm. Does it have a tach? Oh, and the first things I'd probably do after the body lift would be to hack the fenders and yank that Chebby emblem off the front. ;D |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2005 10:54:55 GMT -5
2200 rpm really isn't that bad for a 350. Shoot I'm running 4.10's with 35's and getting ready to swap a 4spd w/a 1:1 4th gear in my little ol 258. That is a pretty sweet YJ you got there. Cant believe they swapped in a 350 and did all that other stuff, but didn't spend $500 more on a suspension lift. Man, you got a great starting point though, nice snag. |
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Post by Chele on Dec 13, 2005 12:00:23 GMT -5
Thats cool!! I had no idea 4" of body lift was illegal!!
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Post by bensredyj on Dec 13, 2005 15:41:52 GMT -5
Wasn't there a running post about 8.8's at URI, think there WAS a complete 8.8 with the 3.... gears, I was looking for the 4.10. Might want to consider a Dana 60 with that POWER!!!
Yea trim down the 4 to 1" BL, maybe add a slightly longer shackle which will allow the spring to stretch more, say some Boomerangs. Trim up the body to match the flares and go from there. need more lift, go spring over. I have plenty of room with TJ flars, 3" springs, 1"body with 33's to fit 35's.
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Post by YJ Ken on Dec 13, 2005 16:31:16 GMT -5
That's still only a 3" body lift. That's a body bushing not a lift puck. I never liked 3" body lifts. 1) It just makes the jeep look ugly. and 2) it fatigues the body mounts. That was the reason I took the 3" BL off of your other white YJ. The first thing you need to do is get rid of the Chevy emblem on the front.  I got 2 sets of 35C axle shafts if you want to blow yours up. |
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Post by Sticks on Dec 17, 2005 17:36:27 GMT -5
Sorry I haven't responded...been on sea trials. Just short of throwing up (25 degree lists and rough seas @ full power)...
Yeah, the chevy emblem will go.
No,I don't know what the spec-number is on the 3-speed tranny.
Sometime this week (on leave) I'm going to pull the trac-bars and disconnect the sway bars to see how it acts. Depending on how that goes, I just might take the sway bars out all together.
Like I said before, an 8.8 is going to go in there. I'd like to do the swap of an 8.8, new 4.5" RE XD leaves (or bigger from Alcan) and drop the 3" body lift to 1" all at the same time. Just touching tht off with replacing the factory shackles with boomerangs that are a little more stout. My only fear is that whoever did the engine swap was using 3"of BL to clear the motor. There is also a set of 1" Skyjacker tranny drop bars, but it has a SYE? It does have 3-3.5 leafs.
I just haven' been home to get that far into it. I just don't want to start ripping out all this to find that I might be cutting the crap out of it...but I guess this is what makes it all of what Jeeping is.
I guess right now, I'm in collection phase I. Got to get all the pieces before getting into stage two...
So...do you think I should be shooting for an Explorer 8.8? I understand it's almost bolt-in. Was there ever an Explorer with an 8.8 w/3.55's? Not really sure if Iwan't to get into narrowing a full size...
Anyways...till I get into it more. Did I miss the meeting?
Andy
Oh yeah...it has a tach (factory jeep dash left side view) but it doesn't work and the speedo is way off.
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Post by JIMsGMs on Dec 17, 2005 18:23:46 GMT -5
Was the body lift installed to clear the motor/tranny?
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Post by Sticks on Dec 17, 2005 21:38:22 GMT -5
Dunno yet? Haven't gotten that into looking at the clearances.
I'd hate to have to pull the entire drivetrain, cut it right, then put everything back in, just to get rid of the body lift.
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Post by A "CJ" on Dec 18, 2005 19:08:59 GMT -5
Nice rig, should be fun. Looking at the engine photo shouldn't have any problems removing the body lift. Just watch the clearance for the distributor. The other is it looks like the engine is real low in the engine compartment. Can see where the front track bar makes contact on the lower radiator hose so definately keep an eye on that too. Also pay close attention to the radiator clearances too when the body lift is removed.
Oh and I would like first dibs on the springs if you decide to change them out....
tim
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Post by Sticks on Dec 18, 2005 21:42:27 GMT -5
Call it a deal (for the springs that is)...
I did a minute to go looking a little closer and there seems to be no problem with removing the 3" BL. The only thing that might be close is the back of the distributor. Radiator looks like it was it was cleanly dropped with drop brackets and all.
I'm doing my research now to see how I can stay in budget and retain enough lift to keep the 35's at a clearance I like. I'm all about getting everything collected, ready, and prepped for install before tearing into it. My upgrade list of what seems feasible for stage I.
1. remove/replace 3" BL with a 1" BL.
2. swap leaf springs to something in the way of at least 4.5" or higher.
3. upgrade the shackles to boomerangs
4. swap in a locked 8.8 for the D35 (OX, ARB, or Eaton?) w/ 3.55 or something around there
5. regear the D30 to match
Right now, I'm having trouble deciding on what locker setup to choose. ARB front & rear? Lunchbox rear & OX front? (I didn't see a ARB for the 8.8). Where do you want the lunchbox if you go that route, front or rear...and where do you want the full locker?
So many questions.
The other being that I think I'd like to stay SUA...although SOA is tempting, it seems like a lot more work and $$$.
OH yeah...provided the weather is decent tomorrow...the trac bars are coming off.
Andy
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Post by CORE 4WD on Dec 19, 2005 20:44:35 GMT -5
My $.02- if you're regearing step up and do at least 4.10 if not 4.56 for 35's.
If you want to build a strong D30 use the Super 30 kit (ARB and 30 spline 4340 axles with Super Joints). It's about $1000 plus compressor ($150 or your OBA). If you wait, sometime this year (hopefully) OX is coming out with 30 spline locker. Just found out. No promises though. I like the idea of no seals to leak at the worst moment. Need to do more research on reliability. Or you could just throw a Powertrax No-slip locker ($365) at it and carry a couple spare shafts.
Body lift-you could cut the spacers down (most likely)to desired length and do the same with the bolts to keep it on the cheap.
Bumpstop spacers are easy to make and can be used to preserve sheetmetal and tires until you find your spring pack.
This summer (can u say True Hi-9?!) I'll have a 28 spline Ford 9inch up for sale CHEAP that is the right width, 4.10 gears in it, open diff. Throw a 31 spline Detroit ($450 Complete Offroad) at it and some 4340 shafts ($325 sometimes less Complete Offroad) and go have fun.
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Post by Sticks on Dec 21, 2005 1:16:17 GMT -5
Ok...trac bars and sway bar is off...whew...rediculous.  So these are free to a good home...  Starter is shimmed down to .0040 and front bumper is fully attached now. Gas tank expansion next... Dave, I think the axles are already running 4.10/11's...it already pulls like crazy. I was thinking of gearing down a little....although distance traveling is not this Jeeps favorable road manners. Filled up this morning, down to half a tank already. Noted on the BL spacers...I have a miter saw that'll work. It's that or trade up with someone with a 1" sitting around. Are you asking me to make you an offer on a hi-9 rear? I'd take you up on it if you can convince me it'll go...not knowing the spline counts and all have me at the "I don't know" stage The OX up front is sounding like a cheaper route than the ARB...although I agree that shaft upgrades are probably a good thought. Allrighty...thanks. Andy |
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Post by A "CJ" on Dec 21, 2005 19:42:15 GMT -5
You might want to hold onto those track bars for inspection purpose.
tim
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. I'd like the majority of the lift tobe in the suspension. So, new leafs are definitely in order.
, but that is probably too high for ya. 
