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Post by Chele on Mar 28, 2006 19:44:50 GMT -5
Looks good Jay..glad you got it fixed!!
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Post by RuffRider on Mar 28, 2006 19:54:24 GMT -5
Thanks, but still have install it. I haven't even cleaned the Jeep yet to c if there is any more damage. But I expect the skids have done there job.
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Post by RuffRider on May 2, 2006 21:02:18 GMT -5
Was checking out Jeep getting her ready for this weekends' JJW/W. Found out h2o pump went out on me. So, I ran to Advance to get a new pump, Thermostat, belt, etc...... What an ordeal (early '00 model w/'99 parts) lol. And, since it took me 2 long to get it back together...there wasn't enough time to install the air compressor for the ARB locker  At least I still have a couple of days b4 the weekend. Oh yeah, and I broke 1 of the bolts that connect front D/S to the pinion. Looks like I gotta break out ol' E-Z out set once again... |
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Post by CORE 4WD on May 4, 2006 16:05:40 GMT -5
Jay did you fix it?
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2006 16:08:03 GMT -5
Ya, do you need any help to get it done for the weekend?
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Post by RuffRider on May 4, 2006 22:22:20 GMT -5
NO..... E-Z out my *%$. I couldn't get that darn reverse thread bit to bite.. Try again in da a.m. |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2006 22:24:47 GMT -5
Drill and tap?
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Post by RuffRider on May 4, 2006 22:32:09 GMT -5
Definately one of my next options. The problem I had was the chuck of my drill hitting the D/S and changing the angle on the drill bit. Which means, I would probably be drillin through the pinion yoke NOT through the bolt I broke off. Got a right angle drill hoping that will allow me to drill(pilot hole) into the broken bolt. Then, hopefully I can use the E-Z out to back whats left in there out. Shouldn't take me long(fingas crossed)...
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2006 22:32:26 GMT -5
I don't know how you are tool-wise, but since you'll be going by my way, I have sharp bits and a tape set. And easy outs. Seems about 50% of the time I break the easy out, and it just makes it harder to drill out, so now I just drill and retap.
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Post by CORE 4WD on May 5, 2006 5:23:23 GMT -5
I don't know how you are tool-wise, but since you'll be going by my way, I have sharp bits and a tape set. And easy outs. Seems about 50% of the time I break the easy out, and it just makes it harder to drill out, so now I just drill and retap. x2 |
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Post by PaulC on May 5, 2006 6:30:39 GMT -5
If you need I have a few yokes sitting around if you need a new one.
PaulC
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Post by CORE 4WD on May 5, 2006 12:51:34 GMT -5
If you need I have a few yokes sitting around if you need a new one. PaulC That's a good plan "b" Paul! What ft. (in?) lbs. should he re-torque the pinion nut to for crush sleeve? |
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on May 5, 2006 12:59:38 GMT -5
If you need I have a few yokes sitting around if you need a new one. PaulC That's a good plan "b" Paul! What ft. (in?) lbs. should he re-torque the pinion nut to for crush sleeve? i thought it was somewhere around the ballpark of 350 ft.lbs? |
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Post by CORE 4WD on May 5, 2006 16:10:28 GMT -5
Not with a crush sleeve. The sleeve will just get tighter and tighter until the bearings bind up. That's why there is a preload spec on crush sleeves vice regular torque (which can be 250 +)used with spacer type set up. PaulC, correct me if I'm wrong. With the axle built up, what's the best manuever to get proper bearing/pinion nut torque? This would prove useful for replacing seal as well....
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