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Post by stuck tj on Mar 7, 2007 17:02:13 GMT -5
I think the new rear springs are to short 4.5" need 5.5", nth deg does not make any. Spacer or more spring . Any one have 5.5"? I have new 4.5" nth deg. or 1 year old 4" currie rears and fronts.
The belly up is Currie ( mods by N2Rocks) THe plate in one picture is to protect the trans bolts. the currie plate is basic, I think Don said nth deg's is built .. The springs look the same between the currie and nth deg, the 4.5 rear has one more coil than the 4 currie. the front has 2 more coils than the currie.?
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Post by beachtaco on Mar 7, 2007 23:19:42 GMT -5
aren't the nth deg coils progressive rated? i have a set of 4" currie in the rear of my TJ and they pretty sagged to about 2-3". i was looking at the 3" nth degree for replacement coils.
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Post by stuck tj on Mar 8, 2007 21:18:51 GMT -5
aren't the nth deg coils progressive rated? i have a set of 4" currie in the rear of my TJ and they pretty sagged to about 2-3". i was looking at the 3" nth degree for replacement coils. Yes the nth deg and Currie are both progressive and both on my jeep compress the three top coils with the jeep flat on the ground. I had to order 6" coils to get the truck level . The pictures below are with Nth deg rear coil mounts 1.5", 6" skyjacker coil,1" body. The front is nth deg 4.5" coil, 2" spacer, 1" body. March 10th---Installed new rear 6" springs, Rebuilt the johnny joint in the rear control arms, had the 37" tires mounted and balanced, Tires put on the truck. The spare fit the rack (some what) So Don I think I will stay with what I have. The Jeep is a little high in the back and leans to the passenger side for some reason will need to work on this. Have no Idea how it will do off road with long arm up front and J arms out back, wonder if I could make the long arms out of the J arms?    March11th Pulled the tranfer-case out to replace the out put shaft seal. Also replacing the skyjacker shifting linkage with one from Novak. Had to pull the console out to remove the factory shifter. So Im painting the Tuffy boxes. Might pull all the carpet out. Anyone know how much to rino line the inside?    |
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Post by Chele on Mar 14, 2007 21:53:55 GMT -5
I just want to say I've been following this thread and the re-build looks awesome. I would love to have rhino lining myself. I don't think it's overly expensive for Jeeps...if you take all your stuff out.
Great work guys!
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Post by bensredyj on Mar 15, 2007 15:14:19 GMT -5
I think the rhino lining or LineXing run in the $400 dollar range, depending on how much prep work there is. Thats why cheepies settle for Hurculiner at $100 a gallon. As for leaning, I heard swapn the coils side to side, they were made that way to withstand the TORQUE of the motor to the passenger side. might give it a shot if its not too much of a hassel. LOOKN good MIKE  |
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Mar 15, 2007 15:22:07 GMT -5
Mike i say flex it on your neighbors big rocks and then see how it sits. You may just need to get everything twisted up and loosened up a little to see what ya got.
Looks almost as high as mine now. Boy the pucker factor is about to get ya. rhino is easy that is what i have just get the el cheapo gun and spray it. I did it in about a day with a little help. You can get the cleaner and can actually clean the gun and keep it for another use just have to run a bunch through it.
Tony
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Post by stuck tj on Mar 15, 2007 17:48:50 GMT -5
Ok, first I think the lean is from the front drivers upper control being spun out to much causing it all to shift to the back side. Going to replace the front track bar (Currie, snap off lots of bolts ) for a full traction kit, that will help with the added hight. With the added drop pitman arm the front should be good. As far as the Rhino lining I would love to put that in but not in the fundage. More than $400 range. Hurculiner Is a good product also used it before on the truck. The overall idea is to get the carpet out to stop the sand from eating into the paint to start rust. So going with this. Still waiting on the new front drive shaft, track bar and front shocks.
Steve, I dont think I'm going to remove the tire rack. N2Rocks (Don) can make you a custome one built better than mine.
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Post by florjeepian on Mar 15, 2007 18:38:22 GMT -5
Mike, owesome job so far. Just joined today. I am down in Florida, very flat and boring for my jeep!! Can you put video up here? I have video from 4 years ago when you moved the jeep for the 1st time after you did the complete rebuild? Get video when your done and it moves for the 1st time!
Your wing man, Mitch
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2007 20:48:34 GMT -5
Hey Mitch! Welcome to the site. Mike has been busy, again. You have to come up and see the yard.
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Post by florjeepian on Mar 15, 2007 21:09:41 GMT -5
Well, not sure if I can see the yard, but I just registered for Camp Jeep. So, hope to see all of you guys. Bringing my son and maybe my dad? Hey Norm I hear that something special is getting ready to happen in your life!
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Mar 15, 2007 21:11:21 GMT -5
Oh Norm you holding out on us??? Is trip to Lagomar in the future?
Tony
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2007 21:32:46 GMT -5
That is very kewl, Mitch! I hope we can get the Repass Beach Grill opened for a few nights while you are here! She is awesome, Mitch. (Tony, what are you talking about?)
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Post by 87B2XLT on Mar 16, 2007 10:54:23 GMT -5
We'd all like to know, Norm... prying nosy people want to know! Kidding. Lookin' good, Mike -- you may be right, you may have to tweak some adjustments on your control arms to get everything leveled out, not to mention, flexing everything and getting it all settled is a good idea as well. Probably just a matter of taking measurements and adjusting as needed for everything to even out. Just beware of your caster up front, you don't want to go too far positive or negative, as I'm sure you probably already know.
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Post by stuck tj on Mar 23, 2007 22:53:40 GMT -5
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Post by 87B2XLT on Mar 24, 2007 1:29:12 GMT -5
A-Rhino-lining we will do?
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