Fromme's "Budget" YJ build.

[PaulC]

There goes the "budget"!



PaulC

[Deleted]

I do apologize but I haven't taken any pictures of my restomod work. I got frustrated and was going to sell it, but then I decided to go ahead with it. I'm trying to keep it under $5000 total. But it's proving to be difficult because tops and doors are expensive as are rear lockers and wiring harnesses. At least I've been reclaiming parts and reusing when I can.
Right now the thing is torn apart, interior and axles.

Questions?

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2013 19:16:26 GMT -5 @fromme said:

Questions?

Will it have wheelie bars and parachute?

[toynrnd]

You are the "Doctor House" of motor vehicles. You diagnose their issues, fix them, and eventually send them on their way.





The motor vehicle world is a better place because of you. Looking forward to the rest of this build.

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2013 22:51:11 GMT -5 @norm said:

Jan 10, 2013 19:16:26 GMT -5 @fromme said:

Questions?

Will it have wheelie bars and parachute?

No but it might have training wheels to keep it from flipping over.
After this thing makes a run or two i am going to consider a vortech supercharger for it.

[PaulC]

I think you should put a snorkel and periscope on it. Maybe even an self sustained O2 supply so it can run underwater, for those deep water adventures.

PaulC

[PaulC]

Anyone for a helping of ring gear?



PaulC

[4WDnRocksNmud]

Is it shake'n bake?

[Deleted]

You baked a ring gear for me? Awwww. We should have put a pan of brownies in the oven too.

[Deleted]

How to save your axle shafts if the seal surfaces are wiped out:

I finally got around to removing the bearing, seal and retainer off the shafts and cleaned them up. I was very disappointed to find this. The seal had worn two nice deep grooves in to the shafts. Any attempt to use a new seal would have been met with more leaking.



Options at this point are to buy new shafts at $389/pr, try to sand the crap out of the shafts to the point they are smooth and the grooves are gone and hope the seal will still fit tight enough and seal, try some JB Weld or Liquid Steel to fill in the grooves, or use a Speedi-Sleeve. After a thorough search I discovered no one made an application to use a speedi-sleeve on a Ford 9" axle shaft. After downloading a spec sheet and a lot of measuring I took a chance and bought one that was of the correct dimensions. It ended up being for a Chevy timing chain cover.





The hard part was finding something the right diameter to hold the sleeve while the shaft was pressed in to it. My friends at Starr Motors, Tommy and Joe found something that worked perfectly. So a little red lock-tite under it to fill in the grooves and add extra holding power and it was pressed on.

I can go ahead and remove the lip but it doesn't appear that it will be in the way of anything so I think I'll leave it be and not do anything that has the potential to mess it up.

[PaulC]

Finished up the front axle and Ford 9" 3rd member for Keith this weekend. Here is the Ford 9" 3rd with the Detroit locker and new bearings. Also put a solid pinion spacer on the pinion.



Had to order some parts for the ARB to rebuild the Dana 30. The diff had water and rust in the original YJ housing.



Here is the "new" housing with the gears/ARB/new bearings installed.



The new cover Keith ordered to protect his investment.



This is the way YJ housing should have been, no axle disconnect. We used a XJ housing and welded on the YJ spring mounts, in spring over configuration, and shock mounts.



PaulC

[Deleted]

Dash is done. Well mostly done. Gauges are all hooked up and installed. Still have to calibrate the speedometer but can't do that until I get it on the road.

[newt]

Great progress - get that crap together and lets go wheeling!

Why does your speedo go to 120 mph and your tach go to 10,000 rpm? Just what in the "H. E. double hockey sticks" do you have planned, and can I be there to watch?

[Deleted]

The only reason is because 120mph speedo is slowest one they make in that size and the 10,000 rpm tach is the only one they make in that size.

[Deleted]

In trying to figure out how to solve the drag link interference issue with it hitting the right side spring I came across a knuckle bracket by JB4x4. I really wasn't up for spending the high price for the Teraflex knuckle and I also did not want the hassle of trying to make WJ knuckles and brakes work. This seems like a reasonable solution and didn't break the bank.






Took some grinding, drilling, and tapping threads but it went on nicely. Now the drag link will be closer to parallel and above the springs. It is too short so I had to source a longer drag link.