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Post by newt on Jan 2, 2009 9:31:19 GMT -5
I picked up the 2006 Rubicon Unlimited yesterday - now I need to start making decisions/purchases. The stock suspension is shot - almost on the bump stops and has some good bump steer. My goal is 35" tires with good road manners, and do it right the first time. I want to keep it pretty low too. I plan to start with the 1' body lift and engine mounts (so I can flat belly it). I'm leaning toward tube fenders and rear corners to give a little more room and a ton more protection - but probably not the high hood & tons of cutting.
Now for the real question - what lift? I only need/want 3.5-4" total. Are the long arms worth the $$$? I really like the idea of the JKS ACOS spacers/hydraulic bump stops, (1.5 - 3" lift) but they are $700. 33 Engineering makes a great looking flat belly pan if I don't go long arm. You can buy OldManEmu coils by them selves...
Poly Performance make a great looking long arm kit, but requires real fab skills I don't have - anyone want to volunteer to provide quality welding services and an understanding of suspension geometry?
Rubicon Express long arm is sort of the industry standard, but I don't like the look of the exposed lower control arm upper links mounts. Fabfours long arm doesn't tuck the belly up any. I haven't found good pictures of the Clayton long arm kit or the Procomp one. Are their others I should look into? Anyone have running any of these or other TJ/LJ lifts?
Adam
proud owner of a low-rider LJ
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Jan 2, 2009 9:51:36 GMT -5
They have strech kits and such also Adam. They will give you a little more wheelbase and all that protection you need. www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFHFTJKGo clayton with emu coils. Claytons because you wont break them and if you do they replace them. Emus just because they have really good and comfy stuff. Tony |
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Post by Marshall on Jan 2, 2009 10:12:38 GMT -5
Go with the longarms at first, the extra money is worth it... I believe MikeD is running the Clayton long arms... I know I will be converting what I have to the Rusty's longarm conversion but that wont be till this summer sometime. With the body lift and a 3.5 - 4 inch and the fenders you were talking about... you wont have any prob w 35's....Enjoy...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2009 14:24:34 GMT -5
I picked up the 2006 Rubicon Unlimited yesterday - now I need to start making decisions/purchases. The stock suspension is shot - almost on the bump stops and has some good bump steer. My goal is 35" tires with good road manners, and do it right the first time. I want to keep it pretty low too. I plan to start with the 1' body lift and engine mounts (so I can flat belly it). I'm leaning toward tube fenders and rear corners to give a little more room and a ton more protection - but probably not the high hood & tons of cutting. Now for the real question - what lift? I only need/want 3.5-4" total. Are the long arms worth the $$$? I really like the idea of the JKS ACOS spacers/hydraulic bump stops, (1.5 - 3" lift) but they are $700. 33 Engineering makes a great looking flat belly pan if I don't go long arm. You can buy OldManEmu coils by them selves... Poly Performance make a great looking long arm kit, but requires real fab skills I don't have - anyone want to volunteer to provide quality welding services and an understanding of suspension geometry? Rubicon Express long arm is sort of the industry standard, but I don't like the look of the exposed lower control arm upper links mounts. Fabfours long arm doesn't tuck the belly up any. I haven't found good pictures of the Clayton long arm kit or the Procomp one. Are their others I should look into? Anyone have running any of these or other TJ/LJ lifts? Adam proud owner of a low-rider LJ Body lift - JKS 1 1/4" BL Motor mount lift - keep the stock mounts and do the JKS 1" budget lift. I've used rubber and poly 1" MML and the vibes they transmit suck. Stick with stock mounts and a 1" block under them Contrary to popular belief, tube front fenders don't give you more clearance that just trimming stock flares or bolting on a set of flat flares. But they are stronger and look cool. Rear corners and rockers - Rokmen I'd try to find a used or NOS Jeep Medic belly up skid and trans skid, or if not, the new Nth degree is also highly regarded. But then again, if you go long arm you might want to wait on that, one might come in the kit. I have no experience with long arm kits. I'd go Clayton myself, and get there skid to go with it. If you go long arm that is. Short arm I'd go Rokmen. |
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Post by greenbean on Jan 2, 2009 15:50:05 GMT -5
Adam,
First, you DON'T need a stretch kit...you have an LJ which has a longer wheelbase than almost any "TJ" stretch kit which will end up right about 99-100" ideally. If you do a long arm, no matter the brand it just needs to be made for the TJ Unlimited.
So the real dilemma is short arm or long arm???
I had the RE 4.5 super flex on my 98tj, good kit, easy to install, ran 35" tires no problem. Keith runs a short arm and has real good luck and wheels the heck out of his rig.
When I got the 06 Rubi I made the commitment not to mess around and after much agonizing over Clayton or Full Traction, I knew I could put the full traction on with out welding....I am completely happy with the system I went with and Keith or Dave P can tell you it did very well at Crozet. Additionally the difference in ride from my first kit to the long arm was significant, got rid of the rear trac bar as well.
I agree if you can hold the spring height to 4" and get clearance in the fenders it will be better, there are several high-line fender kits out there and I feel that is the best way to get that up-travel clearance, tube fenders help, but like Keith said, not as much as you think.
If you go with a Clayton you can't go wrong, but anything will break given enough encouragement!!! ;D
My rig is open to check out any time you want...
Will
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2009 19:48:14 GMT -5
I was thinking too Adam, all this is good stuff, but assumes you're ready to drop a few grand right away. Another option is to go with a standard 4" spring and shock kit (OME, Currie, etc) and call it a day for a while. Those Edelbrock shocks are cheap now, a set of 4" springs can be had used, redrill the hole for the front track bar and you're good for a while. This is exactly what my friend Ed did on his Rubicon Unlimited and he couldn't be happier. With the Unlimited the rear d/s is so long that you can get by without a double cardan shaft and not have vibes, and most likely use all the stock control arms for a bit because you won't notice the shortened wheel base vs on a TJ. Not much money to get up and running until you figure out exactly what YOU are looking for in your rig. Just another option to rack your brain with.
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Post by stuck tj on Jan 2, 2009 19:59:50 GMT -5
Yes, 4" is the way to go. 1" body. Engine lift yes for the belly up. Trim and rub it may. Again the big one is short or long. Two points, how hard and how much? Cost to wheeling factor. The ratio is linear. On the other side I think with over 4 and a long arm you start to loose road-ability. Last one..... taller is bad for your Center. Just remember there is always a good parts ;D cleaner at hand..... Let me know if I can help..
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Post by PaulC on Jan 2, 2009 21:01:02 GMT -5
Also do a few preventive mods too before you go wheeling. While your welding get the lower control arm skids for the front axle lower control arm mounts (prevents ripping off the factory lower control arm mounts), welded a thick washer on the front axle track bar mount hole (helps prevents the hole from getting egged out and causing death wobble), and weld a gusset between the rear axle track bar mount and the left coil spring mount (prevents the driver rear upper control arm mount/track bar mount from ripping off the rear axle). It will save you heartache in the future.
PaulC
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Post by greenbean on Jan 3, 2009 12:11:22 GMT -5
Yep, Yep, and Yep!
Keith, Mike, and Paul all have good gouge on what to do mild to wild, and are certainly much more expirienced and knowledgeable than I. Just like Paul mentioned one thing I noticed right away after Crozet was the abuse the control arm mounts took, and my track bar mount. I defintely like the Clayton Back half for Long arms...Short arms again Clayton, Rokmen, lastly JKS or Currie...All are quality arms with real good joints.
If and when I decide I want to stretch my rig, I wll probably do Clayton double Tri-angulated or the Poly/Gen-Right route, and although it is probably just fine I will keep the front a 4 link, or possibly 3 link...who knows that is down the road. My rig will do everything and probably more than I want to tackle currently. Like Mike mentioned I am still partial to being able to drive it places so it will remain pretty reasonable. If I had a tow rig and trailer, well who knows at that point! Defintely want at the minimum to get some armor on the underside...Tank skid, diff protection, control arm skids. Coners/rockers eventually too...
Ah, if only the money tree were free and limitless!!!
If you haven't already get on Rubicon Owners Forum...there is a ton of mods, homebrew ideas, etc and some really kick-a$$ setups on there. Some are real mild, others real extreme but if you are out west running Moab, Rubicon or the Hammers you have to go that route...
Anyway, I'm done rambling, again just for reference you are free to check out mine anytime if it helps, nothing special but at least it may give you some ideas...
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Post by newt on Jan 3, 2009 16:13:10 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input. I'd really like to take a close look at as many lifted TJ/LJs as I can. Who will be at the next meeting with their Jeeps?
If it look like some folks are planning to wheel the 18th at Crozet, I'll come out.
As for funds - as soon as I find buyers for my Suburban, Trailer, and winch I expect to purchase a lift and tires.
Please keep the inputs/thoughts coming.
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Jan 3, 2009 17:55:51 GMT -5
Hey Slim what tires you plan on running? Remember you have to drive that thing to and from.
Iroks, KM2's give it up.
Tony
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Post by newt on Jan 3, 2009 19:05:06 GMT -5
I'm leaning toward TRXUS MTs 35*12.50*15. I definitely want to go radial and aggressive, but not crazy expensive.
If I wasn't planning to drive there and back I'd look hard at the Q78s.
Adam
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Jan 3, 2009 20:39:31 GMT -5
Sweet those things are supposed to be nice. I would daily drive some iroks again in a heart beat if i had a jeep with a selectable locker in it.
Tony
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Post by jeeepxj on Jan 3, 2009 20:52:26 GMT -5
Short arm with Radial Swamper motivation??  |
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Post by ex-tbd85hilux on Jan 3, 2009 21:22:14 GMT -5
Another option that I saw recently is from AEV (american expidition vehicles). It's called a Highline kit. If you do a 3.5" long arm with this you'll be able to fit 35's and keep a lower center of gravity then just doing a all out suspension lift. Here's the website. www.aev-conversions.com/products/highline/Paul G. |
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