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Post by CORE 4WD on Feb 16, 2010 21:03:11 GMT -5
Josh, just try and keep your stock 'shafts off the rocks. Factory tubing is a little less stout than Wood's. Oh yea and keep fresh u-joints in them. My $.02.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2010 22:01:20 GMT -5
Ok i hate the body lift yall were rigt. Going to put the original one back on and cut the body if i need to for the 36's Now we're talking! You will love that big a tire. When I stepped up to it on my CJ, it really got interesting! I could twist a driveshaft with the blip of the throttle and shatter an axle shaft, to boot. As long as I stayed out of the gas, it was fun. Those tires crawl over some nasty rocks. I suggest bias and Swampers.
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Post by Marshall on Feb 17, 2010 7:28:29 GMT -5
X2 - I had the 36" TSL radials on my TJ...it also had Woods shafts...loved the combo...Gonna put Woods on the JK as well...but either way good luck with the build Josh...
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 17, 2010 19:49:29 GMT -5
Yea chris i am really not liking the 3" body lift. My jeep is way to unstable.
Dave- I am gonna run the tj shaft until it brakes. Believe me i know how week the stock ones are i have bent 2 front yj shafts in a year.
Norm- I am getting the SS SX 36x12.50 15 bias tires. I have LTB's now and would never go back to radial.
Marshall- Dont have the money for the tom woods stuff but gonna replace both front and rear next year or when they break.
Josh
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2010 20:35:54 GMT -5
Marshall- Dont have the money for the tom woods stuff but gonna replace both front and rear next year or when they break. Josh I wish you all the luck in the world wheeling 36" bias TSLs on 8.8/D30 axles and not breaking anything until next year. That is a very tall order.
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Post by LILREDCJ6 on Feb 17, 2010 21:15:51 GMT -5
Alot if it will depend on your ability to use common sense and keep yoour foot out of the throttle. Trust me iv'e been running the 36 iroks for a long time. You can count on no hands how many shaft i have broken. Oh make sure you have an extra flange for your rear shaft. Trust me you want to get 2 of them. Install one on the drive shaft and keep the other in your jeep.
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 18, 2010 12:43:22 GMT -5
Ok good anvice tony. I will do that.
Any ways now that the axles are ready to be put in i have some more planns. Im gonna run SX 36x12.50 and the Mile Marker hub conversion. The main reason for the hub conversion is i got a steal of a deal on it.
Josh
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 18, 2010 19:22:49 GMT -5
Newest update. Plans for this weekend are..... remove darn 3" bl and reinstall 1" poly bl.
Next weekend....... Put the Advanced Adapters SYE in.
If all goes as planned i will have about 2 weeks till the clean up.
Josh
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 19, 2010 20:39:01 GMT -5
pulling the t case this weekend and thats about it. My front axle will be here next weekend. So gonna swap it and maby bolt in the rear but no welding till i get the new driveshaft
Josh
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 21, 2010 15:23:14 GMT -5
took the t case out saturday. not that bad of a job.
josh
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 24, 2010 20:49:28 GMT -5
ok im getting the tom woods shaft because after everything the difference is only $20.
Does anybody know if moog ball joints are any better than any of the cheeper ones out their. The moog ones are like $90. But the lower ball joints are adjustable which will help with the caster and camber angles from putting the lift shackles on. josh
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Post by 87B2XLT on Feb 25, 2010 2:36:15 GMT -5
When I rebuilt the front end on my '86 Ranger years ago, that's the only brand of parts I bought. I replaced pretty much everything, with a few exceptions. Wasn't cheap, but considering the regular 500+ mile road trips I was doing, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Only other 'brand' I buy is whatever NAPA sells, usually - all depends on the part and what I'm doing and time constraints, etc.
Dave G
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 26, 2010 12:21:15 GMT -5
Yea i think ill use moog because thats all we used in the race c ars back home and they seemed to be able to take some more abuse than cheaper brands.
Also im about to start getting stuff ready for the ax5 to muncie sm420 top load trany with a granny gear of 7.05:1. All the stuff is coming from novak adapters. Very nice people on the phone. The whole thing set up in the jeep is actually shorter then origional so the rear driveshaft is gonna get a little longer which is one of the reasons for this swap instead of the np435. And i also dont loose any ground clearence which i would if i went with the np435. The sm420 has a lower granny gear also.
Josh
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Post by jeeepxj on Feb 26, 2010 16:07:57 GMT -5
Do you already have an SM420? If not, good luck on finding one. If you do score one, I'm sure you'll pay a little for it and parts for those things are getting harder to find. These are the reasons that a lot of people are just grabbing up the cheaper NP435's.. Just some things to think about.
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Post by joshbaker on Feb 26, 2010 18:12:45 GMT -5
Found one at a junk yard/ engine rebuild tranny rebuild place for $350 rebuilt. I spent all day looking for np435's muncie sm420 and muncie sm465. The sm465 and the np435 are more easy to come by but the thing is that since people arent really looking for the sm420 they are a lot cheaper. At least where i found mine. I also have done a lot of research and can rebuild the sm420 with brand new parts from novak if i want to at some point. They are giving me a really good deal on all the adapters and shifters too.
Josh
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