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Post by CORE 4WD on Mar 5, 2006 10:38:56 GMT -5
What the heck is a "Snowfighter"? Well seeing that it's a driverside drop... Will anybody be needing a DANA 60 front? I'll sell it for $800....hahaha Just teasing. I still might use it for my 84 CJ. I told me buddies to find me another one... (If they snatch another one for would anybody be interested?). My father said the guy who has my old 69 International truck is looking to sell it.... (So, I told my father to grab it from him so I can snatch the drivetrain). There's a DANA 60 front... it was a 1 ton truck with over-loads on it.... I think that is also a driverside drop??? Hmmm, I'll call and find-out tomorrow!!! I guess I'll be staying with a chevy 1 ton front... "Snowfighter" was just a package name Ford gave to trucks that were destined to have heavy duty running gear installed for snowplow equipment. This from Pirate archives... |
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Post by PaulC on Mar 5, 2006 19:01:50 GMT -5
You can't move the perch that is cast into the diff in four inches. Therefore you would have to add four inches of tube to driver sideone side (pain in the arse) and take away four inches of tube from the passenger side and then move the passenger side springs perch. If you get a '78 to '79 ford front Dana 60 (highly desireable) thier springs perchs are only 31 inches wide and much easier to work with. Ask Bronco Billy.
PaulC
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Post by kwrangln on Mar 5, 2006 19:12:41 GMT -5
Seriously, slow down, breath for a bit, grab a cold adult beverage and do some reading. Hit up the tech section over at Pirate4x4 and read the dana 60 bible. Go out to your heep with a tape measure and compare notes. Figure out what your looking for and what it comes in and then worry about dropping dime for parts vehicles. Search the for sale sections for an idea of what parts are worth. Read up on traction bars (what it sounds like your friend is describing), and steering linkages. Next, do some looking around on brakes, figure out what booster and master cylinder to look for.
Bottom line, plan out what your trying to do before grabbing the torch. It will save you alot of time and money in the long run.
Paul is dead on with the spring perch issue, just one of the many issues you'll have to take into consideration when chooseing parts for the build.
Realistically, do you need 60's? Broken axles on a regular basis before? once you get into the ton weight range for axles, parts just about double in price, and thats just to rebuild, stock stuff, upgrading parts is even more expensive. Not to mention that most 60's come with necked down shafts, full floater rears have 30 spline 1.31" shafts just like a dana 44 uses. Lots of plusses and minusses for any axle you find, do the research so you are aware of what your looking at.
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Post by PaulC on Mar 5, 2006 22:28:04 GMT -5
Drop me a PM.
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Mar 8, 2006 9:42:03 GMT -5
ha ha, that's funny. man can build a high HP engine, but gets his butt whooped by a little piece of plastic.  |
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Mar 9, 2006 23:15:17 GMT -5
25
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Mar 9, 2006 23:16:58 GMT -5
25 years till antiques.
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Post by greenbean on Mar 11, 2006 7:28:52 GMT -5
I'll take the Dana 300 if you don't need it,.....
Will
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Post by CORE 4WD on Mar 12, 2006 22:18:34 GMT -5
Hey Fife- here's some more D60 (ford) info for ya. Got it off Classic Broncos.com.
Ford
1978-79 F-350 and some F-250 (Snofighter and High GVW packages)
1986-88 F-350 with dual rear wheels (DRW)
1988-91.5 F-350 with single rear wheels (SRW)
1992-95 F-350 (all) (balljoint)
1996.5-98 F-350 (all) (balljoint)
2000 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)
2000.5 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)
2001 F350 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2001-02 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2002 F250/F350 SRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2002 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
All these Ford versions were drivers side differential, reverse-cut (high pinion) gears, and kingpin knuckles to 1991.5 and balljoints thereafter. Most Ford D60s are internal style hubs, but external type lockout versions do exist. 2000 and later Ford D60s have balljoints, a metric wheel lug pattern of 8x170mm up to F350 and 8x220mm for F450/F550, different brakes and spindles, sealed "unit-bearing hubs", hub-centric wheels, different length axleshafts from the earlier D60s, and larger Superduty specific tie rod ends. From 2000 on, the Ford D60 front axle is also known as the Model 60F2000+ or the 248M. 248 just happens to be the equivalent in millimeters of 9.75" - the diameter of the D60s ring gear.
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Post by CORE 4WD on Apr 4, 2006 17:49:16 GMT -5
So do you have one of those '78 Ford D60 fronts for sale? ;D
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Post by Chuck on Apr 5, 2006 13:05:52 GMT -5
Might be interested in one of those 44HD's when you get 'em down here -- are they disc? I'm looking to snag at least a set of outers to swap onto the 44 I'm hanging on to for the Bronco ...
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Post by 4WDnRocksNmud on Apr 5, 2006 13:17:48 GMT -5
u still gonna want that 8.8 I have, chuck?
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Post by greenbean on Sept 8, 2006 15:18:05 GMT -5
Man, I'm glad you know what you're doing! That stuff is beyond me, I had enough trouble figuring out a little 4.5" Tj Lift kit. all that engine stuff sounds like rocket science to me!!! Glad you making more progress, your jeep should rip once it's finished!!!!!
Will ;D
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Post by 87B2XLT on Sept 8, 2006 19:03:26 GMT -5
I'm wondering if your oil pressure issue(s) are also due to fresh rebuild / engine break-in? Sounds like it's been a not of headaches and trial / error... but it's good you got it going. If it's a really fresh rebuild, I'm wondering if you'd be better off going with HD30w oil until she has some hours / miles on her *shrug*
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Post by 87B2XLT on Sept 8, 2006 21:54:51 GMT -5
Whatever works. I was never really a big fan of multi-weight / multi-grade oil, but I tend to use it more now. I remember a similar problem with a relief valve on a 350 Chevy engine that blew the filter apart. Luckily, it was inside a shop and on a concrete floor vice in the gravel / dirt / grass... I generally don't like dumping oil in the latter(s). I'm probably going to switch from Fram filters to Purolator or Wix, especially in my Ford... because, apparently, Frams filter out so much crap that it affects oil flow. Hope you get 'er on the road and broken in so you can go out and break it on the trails soon  ;D |
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;D